NATURALS 45
A new natural and biomimetic detergent concept
n Anna Maria Motta – Variati, Italy
It is widely recognised that a toned and well moisturised skin can be maintained only if the superficial layers of the epidermis are able to fully accomplish their barrier function, protecting the deepest and delicate areas of the derma from sensitising agents and controlling permeability and transpiration of the physiological water present in the intercellular spaces. The skin barrier function is continuously exposed to aggressions. The daily use of soaps and potentially aggressive detergents can alter the hydrolipidic skin film and skin barrier integrity, reducing its impermeabilising action and favouring skin dehydration. Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) constitutes one of the main indicator to evaluate skin barrier integrity. The ideal detergent must be able to effectively remove dirt, greasiness and pollutants, meanwhile respecting the lipidic and protein fractions of the horny layer and the superficial hydrolipidic film. Avogelia®
DS is a synergic blend of
moisturising, emollient and detergent ingredients specifically aimed to cleanse the skin, taking care of the delicate hydrolipidic skin balance. It was developed with the specific purpose to achieve a cosmetic raw material with detergent performances combined to protecting and
Table 2: Technical characteristics of Avogelia®
Organoleptic Characteristics Appearance at 20°C Colour Odour
Limpid liquid
From colourless to pale yellow Neutral
Chemical and physical characteristics pH
Dry matter
Microbiological characteristics Microbial count (UFC/g ) Yeasts and moulds (UFC/g ) Patogens (UFC/g )
Stability and conservation
The product can be conserved in the original packaging, in a fresh and dry area, for 1 year.
June 2019 Figure 1: Avogelia® DS (5% in water). PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
6.0 – 8.0 36 – 44%
< 100
< 10 UFC/g Absents
Table 1: Avogelia®
Trade name
Avogelia DS
DS. INCI Preservatives
Aqua, Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids,
Glycerin, Persea
Gratissima Oil
Sodium Benzoate
Function Applications Compliance ISO 16128
Cleansing and
moisturising complex, designed to respect the hydrolipidic skin balance
Suggested for moisturising bath and shower gels, moisturising shampoo, intimate detergents, baby
cleansers,
shaving foams, micellar waters, wetwipes
moisturising features. Corneometric, Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and sebum studies conducted on human volunteers prove the effectiveness of Avogelia DS in restoring the skin to its physiological balance, describing a moisturising activity profile with an added ability to recover the right sebum level just in the skin area where a sebum excess is evidenced. Avogelia Detergent System (now
referred to as ‘the natural detergent system’) vaunts a natural and biomimetic
DS.
composition, combining a mild surfactant agent with a valuable vegetal oil, thus valorising the idea of detergency through unique features. Deriving from vegetal and sustainable sources, such as rice, coconut and avocado, the natural detergent system possesses a high natural index according to the new ISO 16128 standards, turning out perfectly suitable for “green” applications. Avocado, traditionally used as a food ingredient and protective agent for the skin, is widely recognised as a ‘superfruit’ thanks
Ecocert/ Cosmos, Natrue
Natural Index:
0.6 – 0.7
Natural Origin Index: 0.8 – 0.9
Suggested dosage
2 – 5 %
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