WAXES & BUTTERS 35
Ingredients focus: waxes & butters
n Richard Scott – Editor, Personal Care
Waxes are a crucial tool for formulators, modifying skin-feel while also assisting in waterproofing and improving resistance to rub-off. While waxes can be natural or synthetic, butters are obtained from the kernel, nut or seed of fruit such as shea, almond and mango. Butters melt on contact with the skin can deliver a luxurious feel as well as a soothing, moisturising effect. Texture is one of the key points of
differentiation in personal care and cosmetic products, so waxes and butters certainly have important roles to play here, along with the ability to deliver a high level of natural content to formulations.
Following is a selection of some of the latest wax and butter ingredients from leading global suppliers.
Butter ingredients Lipex SheaLight from AAK is an eco- friendly, multifunctional shea butter ester offering excellent spreadability and a very light, silky soft skin-feel. Its low viscosity, high polarity and good solubilising properties allow Lipex SheaLight to be combined with a variety of other ingredients for functional use across a wide range of cosmetic applications and formats, including sprayable formulations. A Sustainable Beauty Award Winner, Lipex SheaLight is derived from renewable sources and produced using energy-saving catalysts and processes. The low melting point means it is suitable for cold processing, making it an environmentally friendly choice all round. With good solubilising and dispersion capacity for both organic and inorganic UV filters, Lipex Shea Light is suitable for use in all types of sun care where a high SPF in combination with good aesthetics is essential.
Comparative studies on Lipex SheaLight show effects on: l Crystalline, solid organic UV filters – good solubility and aesthetics
l Powder type inorganic UV filters – low viscosity dispersions with high pigment load
June 2019
lauric, ucuúba butter is used in cosmetic formulations for continuous hydration, regeneration and tissue healing. Quickly absorbed, it provides softness, dry touch, smoothness and avoids dryness. For hair it imparts intense lustre, hydration, nourishment and protects against external aggressions.
It is indicated for use lotions, moisturising creams, soaps, hair products and male products. Jojoba Desert recently debuted JD Jojoba Butter Vegan, enabling silky textures in skin, lip, hair and sun care for vegan consumers. With a non-sticky texture, the new butter and the original JD Jojoba Butter reportedly leave behind a soft, silky feeling to encourage skin moisturisation, restoration and regeneration. The vegan option contains a high concentration of JD Jojoba Oil, is oil-miscible and is free of preservatives and colouring agents. Consumers preferred JD Jojoba Butter
l Final performance of formulated products - lower ghosting, better absorption and improved finish Citroleo include Murumuru Butter in their range. At the time of harvest (ripening of the bunch) the fruits are detached from the bunches and fall into the crowns prepared by the pickers and are taken to production, where the butter is extracted. Murumuru’s main component is lauric acid. It is a highly nutritive, emollient and moisturising butter, bringing numerous benefits to the hair and skin, recovering the shine and softness. For hair, it promotes nutritional action and volume control and frizz.
It is indicated for use in conditioners, shampoos and also moisturising lotions, bar soap and lipstick.
Ucuúba Butter is also part of Citroleo’s range. The ucuúba butter is extracted from the seeds of the native tree of the Amazon region that grows in wetlands and floodplains. Of great cosmetic importance, it is ideal to replace animal sebum in the productive processes.
Rich in fatty acids such as myristic and
Vegan’s absorption, shine and feel on skin nearly 2:1 compared to refined shea butter, according to an in-house sensory test performed on 30 volunteers aged 30-65. The Savannah Fruits Company produces
and sources various exotic oils, fats and waxes from the West African savannah and beyond. For thousands of years, women have traditionally extracted shea butter from the nuts of shea trees (Vitellaria paradoxa) that grow across Africa’s sub- Saharan Savannah-Sahel. Their traditional produce methods result in soothing, moisturising pomades, soaps and medicines that treat and restore skin unlike any other product. Shea butter is more and more used in the cosmetics industry. Like cocoa butter, shea butter is also a healthy edible fat and used in food preparation as an ingredient for cocoa butter improvers (CBIs) in the confectionary industry to develop the perfect chocolate coating or filling.
SFC’s range includes conventional shea butter and unrefined traditional hand- crafted shea butter; Organic-certified shea butter – their ‘Hippo Shea’; and Fair Trade-
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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