60 SKIN BRIGHTENING
30,00 25,00 20,00 15,00 10,00 5,00 0,00
Control
Ascorbic Ac. (5000ppm)
Larix Sibirica (50ppm)
Larix Sibirica (100ppm)
Larix Sibirica (300ppm)
Figure 9: Effect of Larix sibirica Powder (50/100/300ppm) on collagen synthesis. Fibroblasts were seeded in Dulbecco’s Modified Eagle’s Medium (DMEM). Medium was removed from each culture and analysed for collagen concentration. Untreated cells (control), and cells treated with Ascorbic Ac. were the negative and positive controls, respectively. Samples and collagen standards were then read at 520 nm on a spectrophotometer.
melanin synthesis, may disturb the protective effect of melanin on cellular DNA. The application of topical antioxidants has the capacity to prevent oxidative damage to the skin. Flavonoids, potent antioxidants, are able to protect DNA of oxidative stress by scavenging ROS and chelating metals necessary to produce ROS. In this context, Larix sibirica exerted a potent DNA protection capacity, even better than resveratrol, against UV in keratinocytes and fibroblasts. DNA damage is one of the main causes involved in premature skin ageing. Besides its potent DNA protection, Larix sibirica presents also a powerful anti-ageing effect thanks to antioxidant capacity.
Antioxidants, particularly flavonoids are known to protect collagen synthesis and to prevent collagen breakdown by inhibiting collagenase-1. Larix Sibirica promotes directly collagen synthesis and inhibits collagenase-1
activity. Therefore, Larix sibirica induces a protective effect on extracellular matrix and acts as an anti-ageing cosmetic ingredient on human skin. Targeting keratinocyte-melanocyte cross talk, Siberian Larch extract inhibits main signalling pathways involved in skin pigmentation and long-lasting hyperpigmentation, as shown in Figure 10. With this multi-faceted approach, antioxidant, powerful lightener inhibiting melanin synthesis, melanosome structure and biogenesis, DNA protector and dual anti- aging activity inhibiting MM-1 and stimulating collagen synthesis, Siberian larch extract represents a highly efficient natural, preservative-free, China-compliant, safe and easy-to-formulate solution for skin lightening. Cosmos approved and Natrue compliant, it can be used in many different cosmetic applications.
Conclusion Altogether, Siberian larch extract (Larix sibirica) presents an interesting natural approach addressing key signalling pathways involved in skin pigmentation and hyperpigmentation.
This versatile multi-faceted cosmetic
ingredient, marketed under the trade name Sibwhite, offers a natural and powerful lightening solution, Cosmos approved and Natrue compliant, with a very safe profile for radiance and rejuvenating skin.
PC
References 1 Passeron T, Ortonne J-P. Atlas of pigmentary disorders. Cham, Switzerland: Springer; 2016
2 Cui R, Widlund HR, Freige Lin JY, et al., Central role of p53 in the suntan response and pathologic hyperpigmentation. Cell 2007; 128:853-64
3 Eller S, Yaar M, Gilchrest B. DNA damage and melanogenesis. Nature 1994; 372; 413–414
4 Gilchrest BA, Zhai S, Eller S, et al. Treatment of human melanocytes ans S91 melanoma cells with the DNA repair enzyme T4 endonuclease V enhances melanogenesis after ultraviolet irradiation. JID 1993; 101: 666-72
5 Xia M, Chen K, et al. Mediator MED23 links pigmentation and DNA repair through the transcription factor MITF. Cell 2017: 1794-1804
6 Ando H, Niki Y et al., Melanosomes are transferred from melanocytes to keratinocytes through the processes of packing, release, uptake and dispersion. JID 2012; 132; 1222- 1229
7 Liebel F, Kaur S, Ruvolo E, et al., Irradation of skin with visible light induces reactive oxygen species and matrix-degrading enzymes. JID 2012; 132; 1901-7
8 Mahmoud BH, Ruvolo E, Hexsel CL, et al. Impact of long-wavelength UVA and visible light on melanocompetent skin. JID 2010; 130:2092-7
9 Regazzeti C, Sormani L, Debayle D, et al., Melanocytes sense blue light and regulate pigmentation through the Opsin-3. JID 2018; 138:171-8.
10 Browman S, Marks MS, Shining a light on black holes in keratinocytes. JID 2018; 138:486-489
11 Kiozumi A, Takata K, et al. Anatomical characteristics and mechanical properties of Larix sibirica grown in south central Siberia; Iawa 2003; 24:355-370 12 Benzie IF, Strain JJ, Ferric reducing/antioxidant power assay: direct measure of total antioxidant activity of biological fluids and modified version for simultaneous measurement of total antioxidant power and ascorbic acid concentration. Methods Enzymol,1999; 299:15-27
13 Diwakar G, Rana J, Scholten J, Inhibition of melanin production by a combination of Siberian larch and pomegranate fruit extracts. Fitoterapia 2012; 83:989-995
Figure 10: Mechanism of action. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
14 Lin JW, Chiang H et al., Natural product with skin-whitening effects. JFDA 2008; 16:1-10
June 2019
% Collagen synthesis
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