MARINE INGREDIENTS 73
Sea grape green macroalga fights skin ageing
n Liliane Pellegrini, Max Pellegrini, Aurélie Zamboni - Gelyma, France
The diversity of life remains one of the most striking aspects of our blue planet. It is estimated that about 195,000 Eukaryotes species are catalogued in oceans and more than 2,200,000 are predicted. These data include Animalia, Chromista, Fungi, Plantae and Protozoa without any precise mention for microalgae and macroalgae.1 Nowadays, algae are classified in four kingdoms: Cyanobacteria, Plantae, Chromista and Protozoa.2
Among them,
macroalgae constitutes an exceptional reservoir of innovative molecules for cosmetic purposes due to the important algal biodiversity throughout the world. They may bring numerous bioactive compounds incorporated in a wide range of products like creams, lotions and shampoos among others.
The major cosmetic applications relative
to macroalgae concerns mainly Phaeophyceae (brown species), occasionally Rhodophyceae (red species) and more exceptionaly Chlorophyceae (green species). However Chlorophyta includes nearly 4,600 species and probably even more remain to be discovered as mentioned in several studies. 2-3 Consequently this group of green
macroalgae remains to be explored as a source of new bio-based products and applications. Some species showed interesting purposes for cosmetics, especially: (1) the antioxidant potential of the extracts prepared from Ulva pertusa, Enteromorpha linza and Bryopsis plumosa 4
or also from Enteromorpha compressa, Enteromorpha intestinalis, Ulva fasciata, Ulva lactuca, Chaetomorpha antennina5
the powerful anti-inflammatory effect of Codium fragile6
. One of the most frequent cosmetic ,
concerns is skin ageing, a complex inevitable process of human life, resulting from both intrinsic or genetically programmed ageing that occurs with time and extrinsic ageing caused by environmental factors. Intrinsic and extrinsic ageing of the skin follow different pathways but alone or associated, these processes
, (2) or (3) the oligosaccharides
prepared from the polysaccharide ulvan of Ulva species7
induce numerous external signs of skin ageing that occur at the levels of epidermis, dermis and the dermal-epidermal junction. Many research approaches have been put forward to fight skin ageing and defy such manifestations. These ways include prevention against external environment (sun, pollution…), activation of cell regeneration and strengthening the extracellular matrix (collagen and elastin). In this study, the green seaweed Caulerpa lentillifera was investigated for its in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo potentials to work as a skin anti-ageing agent. Caulerpa lentillifera is known as sea grape or “umi-budo” in Japan, “lato, lato- bilog, ar-arosep” in the Philippines and “Rong Nho” in Vietnam. It is one of the algal delicacies eaten by Okinawans, the inhabitants of the Japanese island Okinawa renowned for their longevity. It is appreciated for its nutritional value and also for its refreshing taste and succulent texture.8
Figure 1: Morphology of the thallus of Caulerpa lentillifera (sea grape).
Figure 2: Magnification of stipitate ramelli with the presence of the constriction at the top of the stalk. June 2019
In some Asian places, especially in Japan, Philippines, Malaysia and Indonesia, the popping sensation when the little grains are chewed is very popular. For that reason, this alga is also called “green caviar”: caviar-like seaweed pods that pop in the mouth just like the famous fish eggs. It is also used in Traditional Asian medicine.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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