MARINE INGREDIENTS 63 Maritech Reverse
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T1h Time in hours Relative to control group Figure 3: Reduces skin redness.
extracted from Undaria seaweed. Both ingredients have shown profound anti- ageing properties by inhibiting key enzymes responsible for skin damage and boosting proteins. The Maritech ingredient range is the only certified organic fucoidan extracts developed specifically for skin care applications.
Enzyme inhibition Undaria pinnatifida and Fucus vesiculosus extracts have demonstrated a novel ability to inhibit enzymes responsible for skin degradation. By inhibiting collagenase and elastase by up to 99%, these ingredients have been shown to preserve the building blocks of skin, helping to maintain youthfulness and reduce the effects of ageing.1,2
Additionally, Undaria pinnatifida extract has been found to inhibit glycation by up to 50% and reduce the activity of radical producing enzyme myeloperoxidase by up to 99%. This enzyme is associated with oxidative stress and inflammation.1
Anti-ageing SIRT1 is a protein known for its longevity- boosting and anti-ageing activity. Increased expression of this protein is recognised for its ability to activate key mechanisms that promote healthy, youthful skin.3
In vitro
studies demonstrate the ability for Fucus vesiculosus extract to boost the expression of SIRT1 by 32% and Undaria pinnatifida extract by 28%.4
Human clinical studies have also demonstrated the anti-ageing effects of these fucoidan ingredients. Fucus vesiculosus extract has been shown to not only even skin tone, but also visibly reduces wrinkle depth and improve skin appearance.5
In a double-blind, placebo- June 2019
controlled clinical study, instrumental evaluation confirmed that the Fucus extract decreased wrinkle depth by 7% after 60 days. A clinical evaluation concluded that 45% of subjects showed an improvement in skin wrinkles, while 100% of subjects evaluated Fucus vesiculosus as effective in reducing wrinkle visibility.6 Instrumental assessment on Undaria pinnatifida extract in a 12-week multi- parameter study showed that participants experienced a 17% increase in skin elasticity, 9.5% reduction in wrinkle depth and an 8% reduction in skin roughness. Additional dermatological assessment found a 60% overall improvement in skin appearance and 80% of participants self- reported visual improvement in skin firmness, tightness and elasticity.5
UV protection and repair A prime biological function of fucoidan is to protect seaweed from damage caused by exposure to UV light. Attributed to this role, Undaria pinnatifida extract has shown powerful abilities to guard the skin from UV damage. This ingredient is effective when applied both before exposure to defend against UV light, and following UV exposure to repair and soothe the skin.6 To evaluate its protective effects on UV
damage, Undaria pinnatifida extract was applied to reconstructed skin and gene expression was assessed. The skin model was exposed to UV ray and gene expression was examined after 4 and 24 hours. Undaria pinnatifida extract was shown to increase the expression of key genes responsible for combatting skin damage, stimulating immunity and providing protection from pathogens by up to 387%.7
Following UV exposure, Undaria pinnatifida extract was also
demonstrated to boost repair mechanisms in the skin by up to 233%. The same study showed that Undaria pinnatifida extract downregulated biomarkers responsible for skin degradation. In clinical studies, Fucus vesiculosus extract was shown to reduce water loss from skin exposed to UV light by up to 33% relative to the control group. Additionally Undaria pinnatifida extract reduced water loss by up to 30% relative to the control group.6
Antioxidant defence Studies show that Fucus vesiculosus extract combats oxidative stresses with a powerful antioxidant activity which – gram for gram – is double that of vitamin C.1 Antioxidants protect the skin against damage by neutralising free radicals that create tissue damage visible as wrinkles, blemishes and loss of firmness. Every day the skin is subject to oxidising stresses caused by environmental factors such as pollution, diet and sunlight.8 Due to its high polyphenol content, Fucus vesiculosus extract is a potent antioxidant with a very high oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC6.0) measurement. The antioxidant activity of Fucus vesiculosus extract is 28,689 micromole TE/g.4
Of which, over 80% is
attributable to superoxide which is a precursor to the other reactive species.
Reduced skin reddening and skin spots
Human clinical trials have demonstrated how Undaria pinnatifida extract helps nurture skin and lessen the visible effects of ageing. This was shown in a double- blind, placebo-controlled clinical study, with application of a gel containing 0.3%
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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