48 NATURALS Skin Hydration n T0 n 1h n 2h n 4h n 14 Days
62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53
13.5 13.0 12.5 12.0 11.5 11.0 10.5 10.0 9.5 9.0
TEWL n T0 n 1h n 2h n 4h n 14 Days
165.0 145.0 125.0 105.0 85.0 65.0 45.0
V1 V5
Figure 6: Skin sebum content after 14 days after cleansing the skin with 2% Avogelia®
DS Figure 5A: Hydration value Fig 5B: TEWL after cleansing the skin with 2% Avogelia®
Conclusion With the aim to investigate the activity of Avogelia DS towards hydrolipidic skin balance, the detergent power, the moisturising index, TEWL and sebum content have been examined, comparing the formulations at two different concentrations of Avogelia DS and towards placebo. The data confirm that both samples have significant efficacy, suggesting the use of the active ingredient in situations where a protective and moisturising action is needed. The favourable effect comes out in maintaining the hydrolipidic skin film in its optimal balance, protecting the skin barrier function against the alterations generally caused by surfactant agents. Moreover, with a constant and extended use, it has been possible to see a gradual and durable increase of the hydration values. Avogelia DS works as an active ingredient giving results almost like a leave-on treatment. The skin barrier function is not altered,
but protected and reinforced (Fig 5B), the skin turns out perfectly cleansed and hydrated for a long time (Fig 5A). The A tested formulation (Table 2) has
received 100% of approval concerning comfort, pleasantness, tolerability and general satisfaction. Avogelia DS gives the formulations a very pleasant texture and an effective cleansing ability, respecting the environment and meeting the requirements of the natural cosmetic standard (Ecocert /Cosmos, Natrue, ISO 16128). It shows a wide compatibility with different surfactant agents commonly used in the cosmetic field; it also helps to solubilise fragrances and essential oils, making possible formulating PEG- and petroleum-free finished products with transparent appearance and extremely mild cleansing action. From mass market to luxury brands, Avogelia DS allows the exploration of new formulation opportunities, moving through esthetical and sensorial appeal with a wide range of added value.
PC PERSONAL CARE EUROPE DS formulation.
Formulation 1: Micellar mousse/09-TE-04-18 Phase
INCI name A Aqua
Aqua, Cocoyl Amino Acids, Glycerin, Persea Gratissima Oil
B C D
Glycerin, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Cell Culture Lysate
Glycerin, Mentha Piperita (peppermint) leaf juice
Glycerin, Morinda Citrifolia Callus Culture Lysate
Preservatives
Preparation method Solubilize Avogelia®
pH 6.00 – 6.50
Formulation 2: Shampoo cosmos / 09–TE–05–18 Phase
INCI name A Aqua Gluconolactone Sodium Coco-Sulfate B Coco-Glucoside Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate C D
Aqua, Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids, Glycerin, Persea Gratissima Oil
Parfum
Aqua, Glycerin, Nasturtium Officinale Extract, Tropaeolum Majus Extract
E Sodium Chloride F
Preservatives DS in water. Add phases B, C and preservatives. Avogelia®
formulation. Similar results have been showed for the other testing volunteers.
Trade name Demineralized water DS Sensia Carota PRCF
Authentical GLY of Peppermint
Quora Noni PRCF % q.s. 5 2 5 2 q.s. Skin sebum evaluation n T0 n T14
Trade name
Demineralized water Gluconolactone Sulfopon 1216G Plantacare 818 UP Lamesoft PO 65
Avogelia® Perfume Cressatine Salt Preservatives
Preparation method Prepare phase A, heating to 45-50°C. Prepare phase B, heating to 45- 50°C. Add phase B to phase A. Prepare phase C. Add phase C to phase A+B. Add phases D and E. Add the preservatives
Viscosity (Fungilab R3, 30 rpm, 25°C): pH 4.80 – 5.20
2600 – 2800 mPa*s DS
% qs
1.5 7.2 12 2
5 0.2 1
1.5 qs
June 2019
Moisturization Index (cu)
TEWL (g/h/m2
)
Skin sebum content (µg/cm2
)
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