68 MARINE INGREDIENTS
Hair protected from environmental stress
n Laury Blambert, Gabrielle Moro - Codif Technologie Naturelle, France
Cosmetic anti-pollution products have a strong growing potential due to the increase of pollution all around the world. According to the World Health Organization, 92% of the global population is affected by excessive air pollution. Following this worldwide concern, the cosmetic industry has launched a lot of skin care solutions against pollution but there are only a few products dedicated to hair care for this concern. However, the hair, as the skin, is the first thing exposed and impacted by pollution.
Importance of the cuticle for hair health
The cuticle covers the hair and acts as the first line of defence against stress. It provides natural protection to the hair and is vital to the integrity of the visible part. Formed of keratin scales associated with ceramides, the cuticle also controls the degree of hydration of the hair by forming an impermeable barrier.
Healthy qualities of the hair such as shine and softness to the touch depend on the condition of the cuticle. Shine depends to a large extent on the interaction of light with a smooth and regular hair surface. Damage to the scales affects the uniform condition of the surface, changing the way light is reflected, hence making hair dull.
Such damage also affects how it feels to the touch. Damaged scales make the scalp rough. Finally, the dislocated scales on a sensitised hair lead to the hair becoming entangled by getting caught on the scales of neighbouring hairs. The most common external stresses to
hair are exposure to air pollution and UV radiation. However, even living in a non- polluted environment, the hair is brittle due to a lot of factors such as external environment (cold, wind, water quality), chemical treatments (dyeing, bleaching) or mechanical aggressions (hair dryers, combing and hair dressing).
In this context, Codif Laboratories have developed a new active ingredient, Capiguard, for repairing and protecting the hair against stress, which can change the capillary fibre.
A high-tech concentrate obtained thanks to a patented technology Capiguard is made up of a marine carrageenan depolymerised through the patented HTAC technology: HydroThermolysis Accelerated by supercritical CO2
is a green process that can depolymerise molecules without using solvents or enzymes and that does not create any waste. This produces a high molecular
weight polysaccharide able to act on the surface of the hair cuticle providing a protective and resurfacing effect. The marine carrageenan is extracted
from the red algae Furcellaria lumbricalis, which is one of the most important species in the Baltic Sea. This extract is composed of at least 80% of sugars and 10-15% of minerals.
The aim of this study is to present the
results of various ex vivo tests using Capiguard (now referred to as ‘Furcellaria lumbricalis extract’) to demonstrate its effect on protecting and repairing the hair.
Protection against pollution Hair exposure to pollution results in the attachment of some particles matter on its surface. In a recent study, it was estimated that billions of particle matters can be present on a full head of hair in severe aerial pollution conditions.1
. This patented technology
be used to protect hair from air pollution, such as performing deep cleaning to remove pollutants from the hair, and providing effective protection for hair to prevent pollutants from entering the hair and causing damage.2 Tested on normal brown hair in a shampoo before or after exposure to pollution particles (wick of hair plunged into a black iron oxide powder), Furcellaria
Different methods can
Figure 1: Visualisation of the preventive and cleansing effects of Capiguard at 1% on the capillary fibre. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE June 2019
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