56 SKIN BRIGHTENING
Siberian multi-faceted brightener for radiant skin
n Véronique Maurin, Yicheng Xu, Pascal Chevalier – Biocosmethic, France
Skin brightening is one of the most demanding segments in the cosmetic industry. The global consumer demand driven by an ageing population and men’s increasing interest in grooming defines new targets for skin lighteners and brighteners. Dark spots, hyperpigmentation, blotchiness, dullness are the main concerns consumers focus on to get even skin tone, fair, brightening, illuminated, radiant, revitalising and rejuvenating skin. This leads the industry to constantly innovate in this area to answer consumers’ needs. Human skin pigmentation is a complex and tightly regulated process. The main factor known for stimulating skin pigmentation is solar radiation. Although UVA and UVB have been shown to induce melanogenesis, UVB induced pigmentation is by far the best studied process. It can elicit hyperpigmentation of the skin, which is caused by increased production of melanin pigment by melanocytes, specialised cells located in the basal layer of the epidermis. Melanocytes produce specific organelles, termed melanosomes, in which melanin pigment is ultimately synthesised and deposited. The main role of melanin is a photoprotective role. Melanin has the essential property of absorbing radiation that has not been reflected on the surface of the skin. It absorbs radiation from 200 to 2,000 nm and the absorption of photons generates heat. Moreover, it neutralises the free radicals that are formed under the influence of UV. Hence, melanin plays an important role in protecting human skin from the harmful effects of UV sun radiation and scavenging toxic drugs and chemicals. The first two steps along the pathway of biosynthesis for melanin are the hydroxylation of l-tyrosine to 3–4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (l-dopa) and the oxidation of l-dopa to o-dopaquinone. This o-quinone is highly reactive and spontaneously forms melanin pigmentation which causes a serious aesthetic problem for humans. Tyrosinase, a multifunctional copper-containing oxidase with a molecular weight of 60–70 kDa, mediates the hydroxylation of l-tyrosine to l-dopa and the
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE Abstract
Skin brightening is one of the most demanding segments in the cosmetic industry. The global consumer demand driven by an ageing population and men’s increasing interest in grooming defines new targets for skin brighteners. Human skin pigmentation is a complex and tightly regulated process. The main factor known for stimulating skin pigmentation is solar radiation. The main modulation of melanogenesis induced by UV in melanocytes is mediated by the production of cytokines and hormones or prostaglandins by keratinocytes, that stimulate not only the melanogenesis but also dendritogenesis, melanosome transfer and melanocyte proliferation. Visible light has been shown to activate metalloproteinases and to decrease collagen production by inducing oxidative stress. Blue light stimulates melanogenesis by acting directly on melanocytes to induce skin hyperpigmentation. In this context, it appears of pivotal importance to develop a new natural multi-faceted cosmetic active ingredient offering a wide broad-spectrum activity addressing the main signalling pathways involved in pigmentation and hyperpigmentation. Larix sibirica wood extract, rich in bioflavonoids, is of relevant interest as an antioxidant for lightening applications. It prevents melanin biosynthesis and melanogenesis, and acts as DNA protector with dual anti-ageing activity. Siberian Larch extract represents a highly efficient natural, preservative-free, China compliant, safe, easy to formulate solution for skin lightening. This versatile multi-faceted cosmetic ingredient, marketed under the trade name Sibwhite®
, offers a
natural and powerful lightening solution, Cosmos approved and Natrue compliant with a very safe profile for radiance and rejuvenating skin.
Figure 1: Larix sibirica tree and cone.
oxidation of l-dopa to o-dopaquinone and is known as a key enzyme in melanin biosynthesis. Antioxidants reportedly inhibit this tyrosinase by oxidation themselves; they inhibit the chemical reactions leading to melanin formation; they change the type of melanin formed; and they usually exhibit a skin whitening effect.
The main modulation of melanogenesis induced by UV in melanocytes is mediated
by the production of cytokines and hormones as MSH (melanocytes stimulating hormone) or prostaglandins (PGE2) by keratinocytes, that stimulate not only the melanogenesis but also dendritogenesis, melanosome transfer and melanocyte proliferation.1
The main mechanism is
mediated by UVB-induced DNA damage that activates p53 protein. Then, p53 binds to POMC promoter and induces the
June 2019
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