NATURALS 47


assessed by analysing values taken using the Corneometer before and after application of the products. The readings were taken at T0 (baseline), 2 hours, 4 hours after applying the product. The statistical analyses showed a significant increase (p <0.05) in the moisturising indices following the application of the tested products compared to the initial value (Fig 4).


In vivo test: Long lasting moisturising and protective power The long term study was carried out monitoring skin moisturisation, TEWL and skin sebum content on face. Application of the 2% formulation, twice a day on the face, as a normal cleanser, during 14 days. Evaluation of the monitored parameters after 14 days of use (T14). The measurement of the skin moisturising effect was based on the internationally recognised Corneometer.


Skin sebum evaluation The sebum measurement was based on the internationally recognised Sebumeter® method (Sebumeter 815, Courage+Khazaka GmbH). The natural detergent system plays a


good role giving further benefit to mixed or greasy skin as well. A sebum level balancing effect has been in fact evidenced on the volunteers who showed a sebum over-production at the beginning of the test (Fig 6).


Self-assessment questionnaire At the end of the 14 days of use, volunteers were asked to fulfill a self- assessment questionnaire in order to investigate product pleasantness.


Skin tolerability The dermatologist evaluates the onset of adverse skin reactions according to a clinical score scale. The product has been well tolerated by the enrolled subjects during the 14 days of use (no volunteer showed onset of adverse skin reactions due to product use). Moreover the natural detergent system at 20% concentration in water turned out NOT IRRITANT in a 48 hour patch test.


Applications The natural detergent system is perfectly suited to making a new generation of cosmetic detergents. Extremely mild and emollient bath and shower gels, moisturising shampoos, intimate cleansers, baby care detergent products, shaving foams, micellar waters and soft wet wipes can be easily created. Suggested dosages: 2% - 5%


June 2019 TEWL n 0h n 1h n 2h n 4h


13.5 13.0 12.5 12.0 11.5 11.0 10.5 10.0 9.5 9.0


Placebo 2% Figure 4: Moisturising efficacy of 2% and 5% Avogelia® DS. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE 5%


Figure 3A: Skin after deposition of carbon black. Visioscan VC 98.


Skin Hydration n 0h n 1h n 2h n 4h


60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51


Placebo 2% 5%


Figure 3B: Skin after cleansing with the detergent formulation A (2% Avogelia®


DS). Visioscan VC 98.


TEWL (G/H/m2)


Moisturization Index (cu)


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