36 WAXES & BUTTERS
certified shea butter. SFC’s organic shea products are EU and NOP certified by Ecocert, while their Fair Trade shea products are certified by IMO under the Fair For Life Certification Program. Olvea Silky Shea is a new innovative ester based on a combination of Olvea’s shea butter and its scientific expertise.
The fruit is collected from the bush exclusively by women. Once the fruit is brought back home, the women process it in several stages to obtain shea kernels, which are, then, pressed at Olvea Burkina Faso to obtain Shea butter. Olvea Silky Shea is a light-weight
alternative to conventional shea butter which imparts lightness and a velvety after- feel to skin and hair care formulations. This multi-purpose ingredient is rapidly absorbed into the skin, providing an instant moisturising effect and a radiant glow. It leaves a soft and silky finish; skin and hair are smoothed and conditioned. This Shea- based emollient improves the overall texture and appearance of skin and hair. Olvea Silky Shea is a sensual new way to moisturise with great spreading properties. It enhances the slip, improves the glide of the final product and reduces the tackiness of heavy formulations. Chiuri butter, from Protec Botanica, is a natural choice for healthy skin and hair being an excellent emollient with hydrating properties. The chiuri tree is native to Nepal, its botanical name is Diploknema butyracea (Roxb.) H.J. Lam. belonging to the Sapotaceae family, a deciduous tree that reaches approximately 20 metres in height. Growing wild on steep slopes, ravines and cliffs at an altitude of between 300 and 1500 metres, running from East to West of the country. It is estimated that there are 10.8 million chiuri trees in Nepal with 5.6 million of these at the fruit bearing stage. Producing flowers from November to January, the fruits appear between March and June at which point they are then harvested. The total volume of seeds available is extensive and there is vast potential for the production of seed butter. Propagating by seed, the chiuri tree offers a sustainable resource for chiuri butter with the processed seed being used as bio manure. The seed butter obtained has a number of commercial uses beyond personal care applications, in cooking as a nutritious cooking butter and as a substitute for vegetable oil, as a base for candle manufacturing or in neat topical application for burns, wounds, chapped skin and lips. For skin and hair care, inclusion in personal care formulations offers emollient,
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
hydration, shine and scalp soothing properties through its fatty acid composition.
Wax ingredients Euperlan OP White from BASF is a wax- based, readily biodegradable and cold processable opacifier dispersion with a superior white appearance for surfactant formulations. The product meets today’s demand for ecologically friendly ingredients, and its unique properties make it particularly suitable for eco-label-compliant skin and hair cleansing formulations. BASF is a leading supplier of cold processable wax dispersions for personal care that provide optical effects in rinse-off products. Euperlan OP White complements BASF’s current portfolio of pearlising wax dispersions and can be used as an alternative to synthetic polymeric opacifiers.
Metabeads from Floratech are scrubbing beads made of microcrystalline wax that provide gentle yet effective exfoliation to the outermost layer of the skin. The International Dermal Institute only
recommends the use of scrubs that do not result in irritation. They do not recommend using crushed fruit pits, shells or similar damaging materials, making smooth, spherical Metabeads the better choice than these other exfoliants.
Metabeads contain no microplastics and
are not restricted by any microplastics legislation. Metabeads are available in all standard Floratech colours and are available in two standard particle size ranges. Custom colours and sizes are available upon request.
Hair is naturally beautiful. The best
protection of the hair is that provided by nature. Sebum, a perfectly chemically designed natural hair conditioner, and the epicuticle, a lipid layer that includes 18-
Methyl Eicosanoic Acid (18-MEA) provide lubricity to the hair and constitute the first line of defence against environmental aggressions. Frequent use of shampoo, heat, mechanical and chemical aggressions remove the protective lipidic film. Hair becomes consequently difficult to comb, rough to the touch, dull, but also prone to tangling and frizzing. Silicones and quaternary compounds are the main cosmetic ingredients used as hair conditioners. They are both efficient, in different ways, but have limitations. Gattefosse’s researchers have applied their knowledge in lipochemistry to recreate a composition that mimics the beneficial conditioning and protective properties of hair sebum without the greasiness. Definicire is a unique ingredient obtained by interesterification of jojoba wax and sunflower seed wax in presence of polyglycerol. Its composition has been optimised to recreate the performance of sebum and 18-MEA.
Central to the composition are high molecular weight esters found in the hull of the sunflower seed and in jojoba seeds. These esters are reacted with polyglycerol to improve spreading on the hair surface and to ensure a homogeneous film. Tests demonstrate that hair regains
hydrophobicity and is protected from humidity and frizz. The hair becomes easier to manage and is smooth to touch, also style is maintained for longer. It has no untangling effect but it slightly increases hair substantivity. 7037 BerryJelly, from KahlWax, is a special blend of wax and oil in natural and vegan quality. In contrast to their regular 7036PLUS VegoJelly, it contains no ascorbyl palmitate. It offers a perfect compromise between occlusivity and permeability,
June 2019
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