MARINE INGREDIENTS 69 Without treatment 7 6 With a rinse 5 -37% 4 3 2 1 0 Pollution Rinsing Shampoo + pollution
Shampoo + Capiguard + pollution
Pollution + Shampoo
Pollution + Shampoo + Capiguard
Shampoo + Capiguard Pollution
shampoo + Capiguard -57% -72% -78% -91% -95%
With a shampoo in the morning
With a shampoo in the evening
With a shampoo in the morning & in the evening
Figure 2: Scores of the pollution particles quantity according to different conditions of treatment and rinse.
lumbricalis extract at 1% shows both a preventive and a cleansing effect (Fig 1). Indeed, applied before exposure to pollution, Furcellaria lumbricalis extract decreases the particle matter located in the hair from 78% (Fig 2). Applied after exposure to pollution, Furcellaria lumbricalis extract eliminates 91% of the particle matter (Fig 2). Applied before and after exposure to pollution, Furcellaria lumbricalis extract reduces adhesion of particles matter and improves their elimination up to -95 % (Fig 2), providing almost complete protection to the hair.
Protection against carbonylation of keratin Environmental stressors such as air pollution and UV radiation have negative effects on the hair cuticle. Indeed, they promote formation of free radicals and oxidative stress. One of the results of oxidative stress
1.35 1.3 1.25 1.2 1.15 1.1 1.05
UVA + pollution
on hair is carbonylation of certain proteins, such as keratin, which become non- functional.3
This degradation of its structural components destabilises the cuticle and alters the hair surface. As a result, the hair becomes damaged and brittle. The treatment of hair shafts with
Furcellaria lumbricalis extract at 1% before exposure to UVA and particles matter improves protection of the hair by 19% compared to untreated hair (Fig 3). By protecting hair from environmental stressors, Furcellaria lumbricalis extract avoids oxidation reaction and reduces carbonylation of keratins, thus cuticles are less damaged.
Effect on hair structure The cuticle’s barrier effect is reduced when it becomes damaged. It then becomes permeable to certain molecules which can induce damage to the hair fibre.
Damaged hair (control)
The effect of Furcellaria lumbricalis extract on the permeability of naturally damaged hair was studied using a hydrophilic fluorochrome (fluorescein). The hydrophilic compound penetrates further into the hair fibre and increases colouration as damage to the cuticle increases. The diffusion of the hydrophilic compound into the hair fibre was analysed by confocal microscopy. Treating the hair with Furcellaria lumbricalis extract at 1% greatly reduces the penetration of fluorescein into the hair fibre in comparison with the control (-68% intensity of internal colouring) (Figure 4 and Figure 5), showing that the cuticle has regained its initial protective function.
Smoothing effect Environmental factors destroy the cuticle of healthy hair, weakening and drying the hair. When the hair is damaged, its tactile feeling
with Capiguard
19% of protection
With Capiguard
Figure 3: Effect of Capiguard at 1% on carbonylation of keratin.
June 2019
Figure 4: Visualisation of the colouring of capillary fibres without treatment or treated with Capiguard at1%.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Carbonyl score Score
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