16 IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL
for a period of 24 hours. Results showed that the conditioned medium from goji stem cell extract-treated mesenchymal stem cells increased the gene expression of several extracellular matrix factors such as collagen and elastin. To summarise, PhytoCellTec Goji
revitalises mesenchymal stem cells and boosts their exosome production and consequentially increase the production of collagen and elastin by fibroblasts. This rejuvenates the skin from inside out for an improved V-shaped face. Nouryon (formerly AkzoNobel Specialty Chemicals) has expanded its offering to customers in the personal care market with a bio-based polymer, Amaze SP, helping formulators to meet the latest consumer trends in hair styling. The new polymer is a result of Nouryon’s exclusive global supply agreement with Itaconix to market bio-based polymers to customers in the personal care market. Nouryon launched Amaze SP at in- cosmetics Global. Recently the company also expanded its offering to customers in the personal care market with a new film- forming polymer for use in long-lasting, high SPF sunscreen products. Oat Cosmetics were in Paris promoting
their AvenaPLex ingredient, a powerful anhydrous oat active that repairs, renews and protects the skin’s lipid barrier; helping to prevent and manage the signs of skin ageing. AvenaPLex – Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, is a complex of skin identical lipids including ceramides, phosphatidylcholine and phosphatidylethanolamine which provide both short-term and long-term protection of aged skin. AvenaPLex contains powerful surface-active molecules that assist in the rapid absorption of skin beneficial molecules, supplement skin lipids, assist in strengthening the dermis and help prevent the loss of elasticity and firmness. Presperse were promoting their
Arcopearl effect pigment range. Arcopearl FEHD interference pigments are a new generation of synthetic mica flakes. These high definition effect pigments utilise a unique patented technology designed to coat synthetic mica in a novel, unconventional way. Unlike conventional layered pigments, Arcopearl FEHD uses synthetic mica coated by Iron Oxide and then Titanium Dioxide to create a new layered pearl pigment. This new layering process creates outstanding visual and sparkle effects that offer: exceptional brightness, intense chroma and superior sensory benefits unlike traditional effect pigments. Arcopearl FEHD effect pigments have a guaranteed low level of heavy metals. With Amberstem, Sederma is offering a natural and ultra-customised solution to the
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
specific beauty concerns of olive complexions associated with phototypes III to V: dull skin (greenish/greying complexion), uneven complexion and dark areas. This eco-designed active ingredient provides a healthy and lucent amber complexion thanks to a synergetic action at three levels: anti-inflammation and anti- oxidation, skin barrier protection and pigmentation control. First results are visible in only one month as demonstrated in vivo: 58% of volunteers found their complexion both more uniform and with less intense dark areas while 62% described their skin as being more luminous.
At the early stage of this ingredient development, all CSR impacts have been considered to offer the most eco-socio- designed product. For example, Amberstem is produced using Plant Cell Culture. This eco-designed technology associated with an ultra-soft downstream processing allows the preservation of ultra- concentrated natural whole cells that boost the efficacy of the active molecule. wesource from Seppic presented its Hydralixir range; a collection of responsible plant cellular waters, sourced from the marine world. Freshwater, an essential ingredient in cosmetic formulations, is a precious resource at the heart of fundamental human and ecological concerns. Highlighted by wesource researchers, new sources of plant- based waters help to preserve this vital resource; Hydralixir range is an eco- designed collection of plant cellular fresh waters, combining responsible innovation and naturality.
Hydralixir LD, Cellular Elixir from Laminaria digitata (certified from organic agriculture), and Hydralixir CC, Fundamental Fluid from Chondrus crispus & Gigartina
stellata, are plant-based waters from seaweeds, that are accessible in a local, reasoned and sustainable harvest in Brittany (France).Two by-products captured by evaporation, resulting from an energy- efficient production with a low impact on drinkable water resources, these ingredients reduce the freshwater footprint of cosmetic formulations. Silab presented Matribust, a firming natural active ingredient, designed specifically for the neck and décolleté area. After 84 days of twice daily use on Caucasian volunteers and compared to the placebo, Matribust tested at 2.5% in an emulsion significantly increases elastic recovery (+22.9%), net elasticity (+18.0%) and tone (+12.5%) in the neck. These benefits have also been demonstrated in the décolleté.
A subjective evaluation confirms these
results: the volunteers consider that their skin is firmer (95%), sags less and is improved overall (100%), making Matribust an essential redensifying and revitalising care agent.
Conclusion
Exhibition manager Roziani Zulkifli said: “It was fantastic to return to Paris this year and to welcome so many industry visitors. The cosmetics industry is going through a period of unprecedented change as numerous factors influence how it develops – from embracing diversity in all its forms, to implementing sustainable practices and understanding consumer demand for ever- more effective products.
“in-cosmetics Global 2019 had it all and
we’re delighted with the response we’ve received this year from show exhibitors and visitors alike.”
The show will run from 31 March to 2 April in Barcelona next year.
PC June 2019
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