MARINE INGREDIENTS 75
with possible disruption and loss of DEJ surface area that may lead to the increased fragility of skin and consequently the formation of wrinkles and sagging. According to a study of abdominal skin, the surface area of the DEJ decreases from 2.64 mm² in subjects aged 21 to 40 years and to 1.90 mm² in subjects aged 61 to 80 years.9 Therefore, early epidermal basement membrane care appears to be an effective approach to prevent skin ageing, to keep efficient nutrient exchanges and the rete- ridges as wavy as possible.
Sea grape is able to interact with two
relevant protein structures of the DEJ: collagen IV and laminin V.
Overexpression of collagen IV Collagen IV is involved especially to maintain a functional interface between the epidermis and the dermis and to provide a framework for other molecules. It is also important in the maintenance of mechanical stability. In sun- exposed skins, it has been noticed a significant diminution of collagen IV in the bottom of wrinkles compared to the flanks of wrinkles. This loss of collagen IV may affect the mechanical stability of the DEJ and contribute to wrinkle formation.10
Therefore, to maintain or
restore an optimum physiological state of the dermal-epidermal junction, it is imperative to have a means of increasing the amount of collagen IV therein. Sea grape increases the synthesis of collagen IV (Fig 3) and therefore helps to maintain an optimal physiological state at the interface between the dermis and the epidermis and to insure the stability of the DEJ.
Overexpression of laminin V The major adhesive component of the dermal-epidermal junction is laminin V, an essential protein to bind epidermis to dermis. It plays a key role together with the basement membrane in cell communication, adhesion and skin regeneration. Its synthesis decreases in aged skin.11-12
This causes a loss of contact
between dermis and epidermis and results in a loss of elasticity and skin sagging.
D0 a b
Figure 6: Immunolabelling of collagen In human skin explants at Day 9. A Control explants without any treatment
The marking is very weak and less dense in the papillary dermis. B Treated explants with 2% sea grape
The marking is distinct with a denser network in the papillary dermis.
Therefore, the dermal-epidermal junction is also enhanced by substances that stimulate laminin V synthesis. Figure 4 proves that the application of a gel with 2% sea grape induces a noticeable over-expression of the laminin V in the DEJ and in the basal keratinocytes. Sea grape potentiates the production of laminin V and therefore contributes to maintain or repair normal epidermal basement membrane structure and its function.
By influencing the DEJ, sea grape supports the good skin cell communication between the epidermis and dermis and guarantees its functionality and integrity.
Sea grape reinforces the dermal matrix The dermis is a complex structure with dermal components surrounded by the extracellular matrix, composed of mucopolysaccharides (primarily hyaluronic acid), chondroitin sulfates and glycoproteins. During skin ageing, dermal changes are significant in the cellular and extracellular matrix components. The dermis thins. Senescent fibroblast changes include an increase in matrix metalloproteinase expression and a decrease in its inhibitors.13
The number of
fibroblasts and their capacity decrease. New collagen production decreases and the dermal matrix declines. The dermis
D28
loses turgor due in part to a reduction of glycosaminoglycans synthesis. Elastic fibres also undergo important changes. Therefore, to counteract these dermal ageing signs, it is important to re-activate skin own production of matrix macromolecules, notably glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) in order to improve cutaneous tonicity and to reduce wrinkles and skin sagging. Sea grape is able to improve the synthesis of major components of the dermis: GAGs and collagen I.
Stimulation of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) synthesis
Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) are involved in many of the cell processes occurring by means of molecular interactions in the cell surface. They also act as tissue organisers. Due to their high content in acid groups, they are osmotically active and attract water to maintain tissue hydration and turgor as well as the transport of nutritional material in the matrix. Moreover, GAGs are also involved in a variety of functions i.e. in the orientation and structural arrangement of other matrix constituents and in cell communication events. With age, significant reductions in the content of GAGs have been observed, that may lead to a reduction in water content and
Figure 7: Evaluation of the efficacy of sea grape on crows’ feet. June 2019 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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