SKIN BRIGHTENING 57
production of αMSH, which is the main pro- pigmenting hormone.2
In this context,
extensive studies have shown that DNA damage itself is important for triggering pigment production and that melanin synthesis may be part of this DNA damage response system.3;4;5;6
Additionally,
cutaneous erythema induced by strong exposure to UVB is due in particular to an increase in the production of NO (nitric oxide) by keratinocytes, which causes vasodilatation and inflammation. It is argued that NO also plays an important role in stimulating melanogenesis. Although most of the known effects of solar exposure on the skin are linked to UV radiation, UV radiation accounts for only a small part of the solar radiation (2%-5%). Blue light represents 30% of sunlight and visible light almost half of the solar spectrum but its effects on the skin are still largely unknown. Visible light has been shown to activate
metalloproteinases and to decrease collagen production by inducing oxidative stress.7
Blue light stimulates melanogenesis by
acting directly on melanocytes to induce skin hyperpigmentation. Opsin-3 senses blue light in melanocytes and mediates melanogenesis.9
Skin pigmentation reflects an interaction between two cell types within an epidermal-melanin unit.10
Interestingly,
cross talk between these different signalling pathways may maintain skin pigmentation. The different aspects for skin pigmentation / hyperpigmentation (optional induced or constitutive and irreversible) imply new research’s for addressing the main pathways involved in this complex field. In this context, it appears of pivotal importance to develop a new natural versatile active ingredient offering a wide broad-spectrum activity addressing the main signalling
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
Ascorbic acid (1%) Larix Sibirica (1%) Visible light is able to induce a more
potent and more long-lasting pigmentation compared to UVA.8
OH O Figure 2: Molecule of dihydroquercetin.
pathways involved in skin pigmentation and long-lasting hyperpigmentation directly related to ageing to answer consumers’ needs in their modern life style.
Siberian larch extract, the power from nature for multi-faceted lightening cosmetic ingredient Siberian larch (Larix sibirica) is a coniferous pine tree with lurid-grey bark and tender fir- needles, which shank off in winter (Fig 1). Larch occupies about 2/3 of all forests of Russia and is widely spread in Taiga of the western part of Eastern Siberia. The height of Siberian larch comes to 45-50 metres with a diameter of 1.5-2.5 metres at the butt. The average lifetime of Siberian larch is 500-700 years and it is quite adaptable, preferring to grow in average to wet conditions, and will even tolerate some standing water. This beautiful, hardy, long- living tree is considered by Siberians as a sign of power and eternally renewing life.11
Larix sibirica: the symbol of longevity Vegetation conditions of Siberian larch in taiga nearby Baikal lake and Angara river are very uncontaminated, which is why its wood proves itself as an ecologically pure construction material and does not include allergens. Because of special features of the resin, which impregnates larch, the wood is not attacked by insects and can be used
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
Ascorbic acid (0.1%) Larix Sibirica (0.1%)
Figure 3: Ferric reducing ability and FRAP values of 1% and 0.1% of Larix Sibirica (powder) vs ascorbic acid. Assay tubes were incubated at room temperature with a TPTZ solution and ferric ion reduction was monitored spectro- photometrically at 593 nm. Ascorbic acid was taken as 100%. Values are given as the mean ± S.D of triplicate independent assays.
June 2019 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE HO O OH
OH OH
without any chemical treatment in cases when other sorts of wood are liable to decay. The wood of the Siberian larch remains healthy during its service time and emits phytoncides – microscopical volatile agents, which prevent respiratory and viral illnesses and provide natural clearing of the air from virulent microbes. Antioxidants, contained by larch wood, help the human organism in its struggle against ageing and illnesses, especially in conditions of stress, polluted environments and radiation. Therefore it is easy to breathe in rooms decorated by larch. Larch charges us with natural energy, and helps to restore energy.
Larix sibiricachemical composition Larix sibirica wood extract is produced from the butt log part of the Siberian larch which mainly contains a bioflavonoid complex whose main constituent is dyhydroquercetin. The action of flavonoids upon human beings can be determined by their ability to protect the human organism from environmental oxidants thanks to their antioxidant activity multiple protective properties. Flavonoids act as scavengers of free radicals such as reactive oxygen species (ROS), as well as chelating metals that generate ROS. The presence of the OH group in the 3-position of flavonoid skeleton is the main structural feature responsible in chelating metal ions (Fig 2). The bark is a complex combination of chemical substances of different characteristics. In addition to the component present in the wood, the bark contains extractive substances, such as 43% tannides, suberin and phenolic acid.
Siberian larch extract efficacy Antioxidant properties The protective effect of a given substance against oxidant injury can be measured in vitro using the Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Power (FRAP) assay. The FRAP assay is a
% Activity
% Activity
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