ANTI-AGEING 69
objectives are listed. Depending on the target of the skin care, there are many ways to validate the performance of each product. The investigators can choose among the various studied effects and design a multi-parametric protocol. Whether for small or large areas, these
biometrological techniques always look for perfect data acquisition with the best re- positioning, the higher resolution, the quickest capture time, and the automatic rotation system. We advise investigators to take time with
the CROs to design each protocol and define precisely the inclusion criteria, the time measurements, treatment conditions, the optimal device. It never wastes time briefing these essential elements.
From trends to high-tech In the SkinObs ‘Clinical Testing’ platform, using the advanced filter of the technology level, we can differentiate the 80 methods corresponding to the objectivation of the anti-ageing claims: l 8 “Very high-tech” methods offered by 15 CROs worldwide,
l 24 “High-tech” methods offered by 33 CROs worldwide,
l 47 “Middle high-tech” methods offered by 33 CROs worldwide,
l 9 “standard” methods offered by 33
CROs worldwide. The current trend of products claiming
action on the ‘microbiota’ belongs to a global trend of respect for the skin ecosystem. Measurements of the effects of pre-or probiotic products are complex due to the nature of possible interactions even if ultra-sophisticated genomic methods are available. Demonstrating a true effect with an explanation of a proven mechanism is underway. Different manufacturers of ingredients take up the issue and try to answer this very fashionable question. Finally, the other major ‘anti-pollution’
trend is integrating both concepts of ‘anti- ageing’ and ‘wellbeing’. A protection component to pollution becomes tacitly a preventive anti-ageing activity, as pollutants are genuine oxidative factories. And in parallel, the ‘wellbeing’ component is evoked through purifying, cleaning and repairing effects in a post-pollution treatment.
The bright future of skin science The various high-tech biometrological measurements give the opportunity to connect technology with new digital personalisation devices from the shop to the bathroom. This connection between objectivation and the digital way of
choosing and buying may bring cosmeticians closer to the reality of marketing. Now the imaging of the skin from the
centimetre to the nanoscale is more and more crucial, measuring several elements and the structure of the skin: water, lipids, dermal-epidermal junction, extracellular matrix, fibres… Whether for ageing, radiance,
biomechanical properties or moisturising, several techniques look for higher resolution, larger measurement area, non- invasive, no-contact and direct methods. The algorithms and the statistics are the principal future contribution towards the success of these new technologies. The combinations of classical biometric
measurements with more high-tech devices and specific biomarkers can provide better understanding of the organisation of the skin structure and its functions. It increases the accuracy of the measurement and gives new perspective in the claim substantiation of cosmetics and its application to ethnic diversity. The era of connected devices for skin
diagnosis or DNA analysis combined with personalisation treatments sounds great for skin care evaluation. These digital tools enable the development of new products to answer the new requests of consumers.
PC
June 2020
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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