WAXES & BUTTERS 61
solution to the creativity and effectiveness required by the new generation of modern cosmetics. The ingredient from Natura-Tec is a
100% natural derived base, Cosmos- approved, Palm-free and vegan compliant. This multifunctional balm has been developed to facilitate the formulation work and improve the cost effectiveness of the finished product. Natural BBB - Beauty Balm Base is a texturising agent and has a butter like consistency with high malleability and softness while having a high melting point at around 73°C. Natural BBB - Beauty Balm Base gives softness and smoothness to formulations with a silicone feel at application, a good absorption and a velvety finish. In emulsion systems, Natural BBB - Beauty Balm Base gives high consistency, non-sticky and non-greasy after-feel and co-emulsifying properties helping to stabilise emulsions thanks to its specific natural crystal network. In anhydrous formulations, it has the ability to bind up to 15% of water and has been tested with a wide range of oils and presents an excellent compatibility with natural and derived natural oils.
Waxes SeraSoft from KCC Beauty is a versatile range of soft silicone waxes to offer the gentle care a sun, skin or lip care product needs, without greasy after effects. The SeraSoft range has many things to offer including moisturising qualities, along with unique feel and textures. The range includes KCC Beauty
SeraSoft SW 70-A, a soft wax alkylated silicone. The alkyl modification makes this type of silicone more compatible with organic ingredients. It enhances softness and generates high gloss in various formulations. Due to its composition, this material is
favorably used in sun care, where it melts onto the skin for an excellent feel while improving the spread of actives, thus potentially improving the SPF of a sun care formulation. In addition to this, SeraSoft SW 70-A’s compatibility with other organic materials gives it many uses in other skin care products. In colour cosmetics, it offers the additional benefit of excellent shine from its high refractive index. SeraSoft SW 70-A is also a good foam booster for surfactant formulations. Recognising the need for flexible
ingredients that meet the expectations of worldwide consumers, Gattefossé has developed an innovative sensorial emulsifier. Based on a patented technology which transforms and functionalises natural waxes, this ingredient auto-adapts to the environment in which we live, bringing guaranteed pleasure to all users.
June 2020 AMBITION / FLEXIBILITY / PASSION / INNOVATION
Jojoba oil and seeds. Emulium Mellifera MB forms a soft and
ultra-light film on the skin’s surface, providing a pleasurable touch and protection from seasonal variations. It is created from natural ingredients using green chemistry. Beeswax and jojoba wax are reacted with vegetable polyglycerol to change the texture into a soft and homogeneous butter that possesses active properties. This functionalised wax butter is then combined with polyglyceryl-6 distearate and cetyl alcohol, in a precise composition designed to optimize emulsification and texturising capacity. Emulium Mellifera MB brings intense
immediate and long-lasting moisturisation to the skin: +43% after 30 minutes, + 40% after 8 hours. After only one application, 100% of panelists confirm their skin is visibly better hydrated. A 100% natural texturising agent based on
a complex of waxes functionalised with polyglycerol, Acticire MB, also from Gattefossé, forms a soft, smooth film that protects the skin from dehydration and ensures a comfortable skin-feel throughout the day. Natural waxes have interesting cosmetic
properties: they form a barrier against water loss, they come from renewable sources and offer excellent safety profile. But they also have disadvantages. With the exception of jojoba wax, they demonstrate low sensoriality and poor compatibility with cosmetic emulsions. Vegetable waxes protect the skin
however, in their native form, they are difficult to formulate in emulsions. They also present a rough after-feel on the skin. In formulation, Acticire MB forms small and rounder crystals that create a smooth film on the skin, leading to a softer touch. To obtain a functional and sensorial
texturising agent, Gattefossé has developed a patented technology of transesterification of solid and liquid waxes with polyglycerol. Acticire MB is perfectly stable in emulsions, and presents new sensorial advantages.
PC PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
www.brb-international.com
The power of smart ingredients
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