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46 MARINE INGREDIENTS *** p<0.001 Chi squared test 100 91%*** 83%*** 80 87%*** 91%*** 87%*** 83%*** 83%*** 83%*** n After 4 weeks n After 8 weeks


60


40


20


0


The product rids the skin of its dull veil


The complexion is lighter The complexion is more luminous Figure 7: Extract from responses by volunteers to the self-assessment questionnaire.


was 4.8% lower than placebo measurements after 4 weeks and 12.1% lower than the placebo after the product had been applied for 8 weeks (significant at p<0.001) (Fig 6). Analysis confirmed that when the active ingredient was present, the colour deviation between dark facial or skin blemishes and the “normal” skin next to it were reduced, resulting in improved skin colour homogeneity. Additionally, subjects completed a self-


evaluation survey aimed at assessing their opinions on the efficacy of the products tested. The results obtained from the self- assessment survey were analysed using the Chi-squared test. The data collected generally show that 87% of volunteers liked the product they tested. The positive effects of the cream that contained the active ingredient were thus confirmed by the volunteers. To conclude, the product reduced the appearance of dull skin for 83% and 94% of the volunteers after 4 and 8 weeks, respectively (Fig 7). Moreover, most the volunteers found their skin lighter (87% at 4 weeks; 91% at 8 weeks), more luminous (87% after 4 weeks, 83% after 8 weeks), and clearer (83% after 4 and 8 weeks).


Conclusion Beyond the iridescent properties of rainbow wrack algae, in vitro and in vivo studies have demonstrated this plant’s ability to naturally balance skin pigmentation. In vitro, the active ingredient worked to reduce skin pigmentation over three stages: before, after and during melanin synthesis. It effectively reduced melanin production in human skin with added melanin by


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


targeting all genes that participate in regulating melanogenesis. Consequently, CyWhite modulated the expression of genes that favour reduced melanin production as well as reduced melanosome transfer to keratinocytes. In vivo, CyWhite increased the ITA of dark blemishes when used at 1% in a facial cream for 8 weeks compared to the placebo. It also reduced colour deviation between pigmented blemishes and adjacent normal skin more than the placebo did. The active ingredient of brown algae made skin tone more homogeneous with a lightening effect on overall skin pigmentation. This active ingredient may be useful for research due to its brightening effect on facial skin as well as for treating dark blemishes.


PC


References 1 Corre S. Régulation UV-dépendante des gènes


de la pigmentation. Implication du facteur de transcription USF-1 (Upstream Stimulating Factor 1). Biochimie [q-bio.BM] 2005 ; Université Rennes 1.


2 Bérengère L. Prise en charge du vieillissement cutané : comment les cosmétiques s’inspirent des solutions esthétiques. Présentation de thèse. Faculté de pharmacie de Marseilles, 2018


3 Hunt G, Kyne S, Wakamatsu K, Ito S, Thody AJ. Nle4DPhe7α-Melanocyte-Stimulating Hormone Increases the Eumelanin: Phaeomelanin Ratio in Cultured Human Melanocytes. Journal of Investigative Dermatology 1995; 104(1), 83-85.


4 Passeron T, Ballotti R, Ortonne JP. Mélanogénèse. EMC-Dermatologie- Cosmétologie 2005 : 2(4), 204-216.


5 Videira IFDS, Moura DFL, Magina S. Mechanisms regulating melanogenesis. Anais brasileiros de dermatologia 2013; 88(1): 76-83.


6 Costin GE, Hearing VJ. Human skin pigmentation: melanocytes modulate skin color in response to stress. The FASEB Journal 2007 ; 21(4) : 976-994.


7 Ortonne JP. La couleur de la peau humaine : de la recherche à l’esthétique. Annales de Dermatologie et de Vénéréologie 2009 ; 136(6) : 252-256.


8 Koike S, Yamasaki, K, Yamauchi T, et al. Toll like receptors 2 and 3 enhance melanogenesis and melanosome transport in human melanocytes. Pigment Cell & Melanoma Research 2018; 31(5): 570-584.


9 Ebanks JP, Koshoffer A, Wickett RR, Hakozaki T, Boissy RE. Hydrolytic enzymes of the interfollicular epidermis differ in expression and correlate with the phenotypic difference observed between light and dark skin. The Journal of Dermatology 2013; 40(1): 27-33.


10 Chen N, et al. Cathepsin L2 Levels Inversely Correlate with Skin Color, Journal of Investigative Dermatology 2006; 126: 2345–2347.


11 Cario-Andre M. Rôle des mélanocytes dans l’unité épidermique de mélanisation reconstruite ex-vivo après une irradiation UV aiguë. Thèse de Doctorat, Université Victor Segalen-Bordeaux II, 2000.


12 Yamaguchi Y, Itami S, Watabe H, et al. Mesenchymal–epithelial interactions in the skin: increased expression of dickkopf1 by palmoplantar fibroblasts inhibits melanocyte growth and differentiation. The Journal of Cell Biology 2004;165(2): 275-285.


13 Forrest ARR, Carninci P. Whole genome transcriptome analysis, RNA Biology 2009; 6(2): 107-112,


June 2020


The complexion is more transparent


% of convinced volunteers


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