28 MARINE INGREDIENTS
economic zone ZEE), with 11 million km² of territorial waters, thanks to overseas areas, thousands of kilometers of coastline, three maritime coasts - the English Channel / North Sea, the Atlantic and the Mediterranean - and a presence in all the world’s oceans.13 France is home to 10% of the known world biodiversity with its overseas
territories.The National Museum of Natural History in Paris has nearly 70 million specimens, and is one of the three largest global institutions. This is an opportunity for France in terms of resources in biodiversity and academic knowledge. WeSource developed Celebrity™, as a technology owner, to cultivate macroalgal cells in the laboratory in order to propose active ingredients for cosmetics. The sea surrounding France’s Bréhat archipelago (Brittany) has a rich biodiversity and contains hundreds of suspended species. With this unlimited potential in mind, Celebrity has made it possible to create a bank of macroalgal cells - which are found in very low quantities in the ocean - from many species whose compositions and effects on skin have yet to be explored. Using in vitro macroalgal cells culture, WeSource is offering a new marine source of active ingredients. With this breakthrough innovation, WeSource is strengthening its position as a leading supplier of cosmetic active ingredients by combining scientific creativity with reliability. Erwan Le Gélébart, innovation project manager at BiotechMarine said: “We look for the beneficial properties contained in rare macroalgae and little-known species. Our Innovation & Development team has developed unique methods for macroalgal cell cultivation. This is a major innovation for the world of cosmetic active ingredients.” To protect the skin from the ravages of pollution, WeSource is innovating with an extract of Acrochaetium moniliforme (EoAM), a skin- purifying active ingredient. 92% of the world’s population lives in an environment
55 45 35 25 15
5 0
2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020
Figure 4: In association with other microorganisms, Acrochaetium moniliforme helps to protect its host against external aggressions
that is overpolluted14 causing numerous
adverse impacts on the skin, such as early ageing, cutaneous malfunctions or overproduction of sebum. EoAM is an extract from a little known red algae, which lives in contact with other algae. In association with other microorganisms, it helps to protect its host against external aggressions. Specimens of this species are so small that few studies describe its existence. We were advised by the National Museum of Natural History in order to identify this species. Drawing inspiration from the properties of this algae, WeSource offers skin protection against pollution: in two months, it effectively reduces the sebum production of skin exposed to a polluted atmosphere with a visible and lasting result. EoAM is an exceptional skin-purifying agent that works against several pollutants (ozone, microparticles, heavy metals) through its combined properties.
Innovation by constraints Market constraints are certainly the most impacting aspects upon operations. Each product is defined by a profile covering
sustainable sourcing, product design, composition, regulatory, efficacy, industrial process. More than 50 criteria describe the potential of an active ingredient on the market. For each of those criteria, we quantify the level of inclusivity on a global launch in order to evaluate its potential. If any missing criterion excludes more than 30% of potential opportunities worldwide, we prefer not to promote it globally. This is how we decided to value our offer, based on existing portfolio, with revalorization on numerous aspects. Those initiatives mostly cover traceability, certifications, regulatory compliance. By doing so, we have succeeded in accelerating our business development by foreseeing and meeting the increasing market demand for marine brands or ranges of finished products with marine image extensions. Based on the distribution of active patents and finished product launches on the skin care market with algae ingredients, CIPHER and Mintel GNPD show the strong increase of marine lines of products in cosmetics. From 2014 to 2019, the increase is about 70%. Our development exceeded this market
51 marine active ingredients VEGAN compliancy 37 marine active ingredients COSMOS approved
25 marine active ingredients NATRUE approved
23 marine active ingredients with traceability (country of seeweed or maritime plants; mode of harvesting or collecting).
17 marine active ingredients covered by SEPPIC palm status certificate Supply chain model assessed: MassBalance. Site concerned: Biotech marine These products contribute to the production of certified sustainable palm oil through the MassBalance model
10 marine active ingredients with Vegetal butylene glycol
HALAL certified: BiotechMarine site & products have been verified and audited by Halal Certification Services (HCS)
Figure 5:Number of products from BiotechMarine. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE June 2020
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