SKIN CARE 49


160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0


t=0 t=1 Weeks Figure 5: Effect on sebum production as determined with sebumeter. n Pustules n Comedones n Papules 25 20 15 10 5 0 t=0 t=1 Weeks t=4 t=8 Figure 7: Effect on number of papules, comedones and pustules.


cosmetic ingredients which they deem unsafe. The internet is awash with the opinions of young consumers and the cosmetic industry, small, but now the big companies as well, are picking that up. They are important drivers behind the natural and ‘clean’ beauty skin care market. Another important demand the


Generation Z consumer has, is ‘efficacy’. They use a skin care product for a specific purpose. Gen Z’ers are young and many of them suffer from skin problems related to the hormonal changes they are going through. These changes start in early puberty but can last into the early 20s. During this period skin changes constantly, skin gets more oily and many of them start to develop comedones and pimples. Hair becomes oily too, another important problem for younger generations. Gen Z’ers have specific problems and they want them to be solved or, even better, they want their skin problems to not occur in the first place. In the context of the above, the


Generation Z consumer is exposed to many cosmetic products and brands. They buy products online and switch from one product to the other, virtually in a blink of


June 2020


Figure 8: Effect on typical features associated with acne as perceived by the volunteers.


the eye. Brand loyalty is something which is hard to find in the cosmetic industry as it is, but this is even more of a challenge with the consumers belonging to Generation Z. ‘Efficacy’ of the skin care product they use is vital for the success of the skin care product. It is easy to sell a product once, it is extremely difficult, though, to get repeat purchases. Repeat purchases will only be made when the product works for the Gen Z’er. Repeat purchases are needed for a product/brand to be successful. ‘Efficacy’ is therefore of essence, but


the skin care product should also ‘tick all the other boxes’ which are important to the Gen Z’er. Safety must be a given. Naturalness is another such essential feature. It needs to be clean and, preferentially, must communicate in a language they appreciate and not belong to ‘big industry’. CLR Berlin has developed a new active ingredient, CutiBiome CLR, based on a synergistic mix of extracts from Black Pepper, Manuka and Magnolia (INCI: Octyldodecanol, Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil, Piper Nigrum Seed Extract, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract; MPM Complex). MPM Complex was developed to cater to all the needs of the Generation Z consumer.


Anticipating changes in skin is a complex undertaking Hormonal changes and fluctuations, associated with an increased presence of testosterone, have been known to be involved in the increase of sebum production. This has always been implied in acne. The latest research does not contradict this, but we need to carefully distinguish between the different microbial levels. Cutibacterium acnes is a bacterium which has been recognised as a key species in acne. However, it is important to appreciate that C. acnes is the most prevalent bacterium in and on human skin, whether or not a person suffers from acne. C. acnesmainly resides inside the hair follicles, where, as an anaerobic bacterium, it is protected against oxygen and is close to its main food source, sebum, which is produced by the sebaceous glands. C. acnes shows different genetic


variants, i.e. phylotypes, some of which can be considered to be ‘neutral’ and some as virulent (‘aggressive’). The ‘neutral’ phylotypes of C. acnes normally dominate the hair follicles, whereas the virulent phylotypes only dominate the hair follicle in acne lesions. The reason for this was only recently discovered. The increase in sebum


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE weeks disagreed (%) agreed (%)


1 4


8 1 4


8 1 4 8


Skin quality has improved


My skin shows less acne symptoms


My quality of life has improved


30 20 10 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 t=4 t=8 weeks disagreed (%)


1 4 8 1 4 8


agreed (%)


My skin is less oily


New seburm formation is delayed


30 20 10 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 Figure 6: Effect on skin oiliness in the perception of the volunteers.


Number


Sebum (a.u)


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76