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ANTI-AGEING 67


Clinically supporting ‘antiage’ and ‘proage’ claims


n Anne Charpentier – SkinObs, France


Claims of personal care evolve following trends and various innovations in the field of active ingredient development, the finished product formulation and the way both are evaluated, demonstrating their performance. Since 2014, the cosmetics industry is gradually leaving the era of anti-ageing behind. Today, most consumers are more in the mood for a well ageing, slow ageing or pro ageing approach. The philosophy of the ‘pro-ageing’


movement has sought to remove all ‘anti’ claims because, according to this concept, women over 50 are not interested in looking younger; they want to look healthy and be honest about their age. Some brands have used the idea of “improves the appearance of skin quality”, and “restore the skin comfort”, for example. A new vocabulary of renewal, regeneration, plumpness and “glow” now dominates the language of the beauty industry. Beauty then becomes more integrative, it


will globalise wellbeing, the silhouette, the sleep quality or the lifestyle, resulting in a different look with new codes and expressions. Consumers are going to take action to preserve their tonicity, elegance, silhouette. In this quest for mindful beauty radiance, what women expect from cosmetics is emotional


Table 1: Anti-ageing claim substantiation terms Action


This is how the 20th century differentiated the environmental factors called exposomes, the most important of which are now sun and pollution exposure, and factors related to the biological clock, i.e. the genome. External criteria are a broad list: the sun above all, but also tobacco, sun, pollution, food, alcohol, cigarettes, medicines... During consultations with the elderly, the


pleasure, sensoriality. It is all about supporting the ageing process rather than fighting the signs of ageing, with skin care products supporting a ’pro-longevity’ life enhancer.


The exposome process beyond the ageing mechanisms The phenomena influencing the skin ageing are now well known. Today, two main factors that influence skin ageing are considered, one of which is intrinsic, the second extrinsic.


Claims Care


Short Term


Protection


anti-wrinkle moisturising anti-oxidant lifting


complexion and radiance strengthen the epidermal junction


anti-UVA+UVB anti-blue light anti-infrared


anti- free radical / anti-oxidant anti-pollution


DNA protection


Long Term


Care


anti-sagging, anti-age spot oval face


resculpting anti-pollution June 2020


signs of ageing observed are mainly: skin atrophy, xerose, various keratoses. The skin abnormalities that characterise photoageing depend on the light or dark phototype. Light skins become cut instead, dark skin becomes thicker. UVB and UVA ultraviolet rays cause severe damage to the dermis. The exposome can be summed up mainly by the oxidative stress caused by different environmental conditions. The pro-age treatment can boost blood circulation, encouraging collagen production and helping lift, plump and define contours for a firmer appearance. Moisturising ingredients are used for immediate and long- term effects, as it increases skin elasticity and firmness while gently exfoliating dead skin cells. Other ingredients work as lymphatic drainers to change the shape of the cheekbones and add definition. The major consequences concern the


human in its temporality and for the skin, mainly changes in the epidermis-dermis- hypodermis exchanges. The growing complexity of lifestyles in


the last decade impacts the way anti- ageing care products are being used globally. In another way, the industry anticipates the latest and global technological evolution such as genomics, A.I, the Internet of Things, to develop, produce and market these specific skin care products and answer the regulatory constraints and the consumer demand.


Studies of skin age perception To look more closely at the category of anti-ageing, it represents the most numerous, precise and specific claims of all cosmetic products. In addition to the geographical variations of their regulatory status according to each country, their


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


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