68 ANTI-AGEING
Table 2: Anti-ageing claim substantiation. Clinical Assessment Studied effect
Biomechanical properties Wrinkles and relief Face morphology and Volume Hydration Barrier function Age-spots Methods and Devices Cutometer, Cutiscan (C+K), Dynaskin and SkinFlex (Orion), Ballistometer (Dia-Stron)
AEVA-HE, Dermatop-HE (Eotech), ColorFace (Newtone technologies), Clarity 3D (BTBP), PrimosLite-Primos 3D (Canfield), Visioscan VC 98 (C+K), Antera 3D (Miravex), C-Cube (Pixience)
ColorFace (Newtone), AEVA-HE, Dermatop-HE (Eotech), Vectra, Olé, Primos (Canfield), Observ 320 (Innofaith), HeadScan (Orion)
Corneometer and MoistureMap (C+K), Epsilon (Biox), DPM 9003 (NovaTech), Moisturemeter SC (Delfin), DermaLab (Cortex), Skicon-200….
Tewameter® TM 300 and Nano (C+K), Aquaflux (Biox), Evaporimeter, Vapometer (Delfin),
Dermalab (Cortex)… Mexameter®
MX 18, Colorimeter (C+K), SkinColorCatch (Delfin), TiVi 70 Skin Colour (Wheelsbridge), C-Cube (Pixience), Chromameter (Minolta), SpectraCam (Newtone)
Gloss, complexion and radiance ColorFace (Newtone), Goniolux (Orion), Skin GlossyMeter (C+K), SkinGlossMeter (Delfin), Skin surface
SpectraCam (Newtone), Epsilon (Biox), Dermatop-HE (Eotech), Visia-CR (Canfield), Visioface and Visioscan (C+K), SiaScope (MedXhealth), ViewSkin, C-Cube (Pixience), Antera 3D (Miravex), TiVi80 (Wheelsbridge), Clarity 3D Mini (BTBP), Neo Voir II (C-Lab Co ), SIAScope (Medxhealth), and all videomicroscopes
Skin strucure Skin Molecular Content Global Aspect
performance generally proclaim several effects on mechanisms which are: l Targeted: skin relief, collagen, cellular communication, Dermo-epidermal junction...
l Localised: Crow’s feet, lion’s wrinkles, oval face...
l Focused at different skin depths: epidermis, dermal-epidermal junction, dermis and
l Interconnected in various mechanisms: cellular and biochemical (microbiota, keratinocytes, fibroblasts, melanocytes, nervous receptors...) More than classical efficacy on the skin
surface and structure, skin care dedicated to mature skin reveals improvements in emotional, wellbeing, sensoriality properties, but the cutaneous signs of ageing are still seriously studied with a great accuracy as a tangible proof of the product’s performance. The promise is a recovery of the tissue
elasticity, the face’s shape, the plump and voluminous appearance. A list of the principal signs of ageing influencing age perception can be established although their importance differs among different ethnicities. Skin tone is generally considered a sign of ageing among Asians, with skin dullness and hyperpigmentation. Among Caucasians wrinkles – particularly around the eye and
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Dubskin-scanner, Dermatop-HE (Eotech), LC-OCT (Damae), Antera 3D (Miravex), Sonde Raman (Horiba Jobin), Vivascope (Mavig), Vivosight (Michelson), TiVi80 (Wheelsbridge), Dermascan (Cortex)
LC-OCT (Damae), Sonde Raman (Horiba Jobin), FibroTX (Eotech), Raman spectroscopy gen2- SCA (RiverD), Genomic, metabolomic, proteomic analysis
“Visual and tactile objectivation with Scoring by technician experts and dermatologists using specific scales and photos, Sensory analysis by trained panels or naïve subjects, Emotions evaluation by I.A, Consumer testing”
forehead area – are the important signs. Sagging skin around the mouth and jawline is also described earlier than other ethnicities. Anti-ageing claims, because the term is
vast, include among others: firmness, radiance, anti-sagging, energising, improves barrier function, increases cellular renewal, attenuates senescence spots,... We can categorise the skin ageing signs:
l Skin colour and pigmentation: Redness, tone, radiance, age spots, circles under eyes
l Skin topography: Crow’s Feet, furrow lines, upper lip, under-eye, forehead wrinkles, roughness
l Skin structure: thickness, epidermal junction, barrier function…
l Volume: Face, nasolabial sagging or smile lines, puffiness, eyelids…
l Biomechanical properties: Firmness, elasticity…
The various ways to objectivate this claim A great possibility regarding the analysis of pro-age performance is offered to cosmetics brands to clinically demonstrate these effects via biometrological and scientific measures. The conduct of the efficacy studies refers to the regulation in each world zone and
sometimes each country. In Europe, the reference is the European regulations for cosmetics principally with the common Product Information File (P.I.F). To substantiate product claims people must respect the 6 common criteria without specific norms for each test (except sensory analysis and sun protection index cf. ISO) and people can follow guidelines for human testing such as EEMCO, Good Clinical Practice. These scientific objectivation processes protect the consumer from misleading claims and preserve the credibility of the cosmetic industry. In the concept of ‘wellbeing’ the notion
of ‘anti-ageing’ is little thought of, one might as well say ‘pro-age’ or ‘plain age’, the condition of the skin being considered in its entirety. The identification of the properties of these products uses a sensory approach, sometimes neurosensory and holistic. The feeling, and the impact on the quality of life are measured. The investigators can choose the tests
between 5 main categories: consumer tests, sensory or emotional analysis, biometrological studies, clinical scores, or people can also design the protocol of the studies combining 2 or 3 of them. In Table 2, all the devices enabling a quantitative, semi-quantitative or imaging
June 2020
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