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MARINE INGREDIENTS 27


ways in order to cross-check the different information: Unannounced field checks, Purchaser controls, Analysis of harvest sheets (companies are required to declare, each month for each harvester, the harvest carried out by species according to a grid of 500m by 500m.) Fisheries committees also have the option of hiring investigators who can investigate infractions. This is the case in the regions of Morbihan and the Côtes d’Armor, and soon in Finistère. WeSource trusts in local and European authorities and is aligned with the principles of ‘blue economy’, defined by the World Bank as the sustainable valorization of oceanic resources for the growing economy, improvement of livelihood and employment, meanwhile preserving the health of oceanic ecosystems.


Innovation based on bio-inspiration There are about 3 million species identified worldwide and maybe up to 30 million species globally. 280,000 of them are marine species.3


The discovery rate of identification


and description of marine species is estimated at 1,600 species per year.4 Biodiversity is huge. Species are linked by complex interdependencies and by both principles of competition and by mutual aid.5 For every species, each individual can be considered by its description, functions and principles of organisation with externals. This is a way to analyse life science and perceive how plants or seaweeds can allow us to partially understand how each species could adapt itself, through 3.8 billion years of evolution (of which 3 billion years were in sea water). Since the foundation of Biotechmarine, innovation has focused on the specific adaptation to external stress for each seaweed we have decided to study and to supply on the cosmetics market.The brown seaweed Pelvetia canaliculata is sprinkled on the top of the foreshore. It is covered by sea water for very short periods


of time. This species fights desiccation very well thanks to its rich composition in polysaccharides enabling water retention. Pelvetia canaliculata can be exposed for several days during neap tides. It has a 4-year cycle and can reach 15 cm long.6


WeSource


Figure 3:Our innovation team investigated Asparagopsis armata which is known to contain mycosporine-like amino acids.


June 2020


had the idea that such a species is able to resist desiccation thanks to certain types of polysaccharides that might have anti-ageing skin benefits; WeSource confirmed the theory by demonstrating a replumping effect in the dermis. Laminaria ochroleuca, another brown seaweed, is exposed to UV on the foreshore. WeSource had the thought that such a seaweed might have benefits on UV skin protection. WeSource confirmed these benefits with skin cells DNA protection exposed to UV and clinical results for immediate soothing benefits after UV exposure. Codium tomentosum is a small green alga (up 30 cm length). The sling is solid and spongy, with a velvety appearance. The spike is disc shaped and comprised of a large number of filaments. This species binds to exposed rocks and grows in natural water wells within the infralittoral zone.The velvet- like appearance is due to a microrelief allowing the seaweed to protect itself.7 WeSource had the notion that such a species is able to resist salt rate variation (from 20 to 45 g/L of salt into the sea water) thanks to its ability to regulate osmotic pressure (maintaining its hydration rate around 85%), and therefore might have skin hydration benefits. WeSource confirmed clinical benefits for immediate and lasting moisturisation of the skin.This method of observation and analysis drives our process of innovation in order to respond to specific skin benefits with solutions inspired by nature. Marine resources are a rich reservoir for the identification and extraction of molecules of interest for pharmacological


Figure 2:WeSource confirmed benefits with skin cells DNA protection exposed to UV and clinical results for immediate soothing benefits after UV exposure.


and cosmetic applications. There are about 25,000 molecules8


extracted from living


organisms for numerous purposes. WeSource offers a new active ingredient from the red seaweed Asparagopsis armata, reducing contagious ageing. Our skin is constantly under stress, resulting in accelerated ageing with visible modifications like wrinkles and loss of firmness. Ageing generates senescent cells, which are affected by functional and morphological modifications. These senescent cells release a ‘Senescence Messaging Secretome’, also called ‘SMS’, that affects neighbouring young cells, accelerating their ageing process, which is what we call “contagious ageing”. In the meantime, our Innovation & Development team in botanical and marine biotechnologies made a great discovery. Marine organisms, called opisthobranchs (from a large group of gastropods), are also well known as Sea Hares. These animals communicate with each other through chemical signals. Some species are known to use mycosporine-like amino acids (MAA) as an intraspecific communication in order to alert of an external danger.9


Those chemical


signals are composed of elements from their food. Focusing on this singular approach, we discovered that some species (for example Aplysia parvula) are known to feed on Asparagopsis armata, a seaweed present in Brittany.10


Our innovation team investigated


Asparagopsis armatawhich is known to contain MAA: approx. 100 to 400 ppm in a fresh seaweed.11


As the Aplysia use MAA as


an intraspecific alarm, we found it very interesting to investigate if it might also have some benefits in regulating contagious ageing as a skin benefit. Moreover, the chemical communication thanks to MAA is effective at a very low concentration (7-70 ppm palythine equivalent).12


Using a bio-


inspiration approach, WeSource investigated if the MAA might also provide a skin benefit in a regulation of cell-to-cell communication, and developed an extract of Asparagopsis armata (EoAA) containing MAA. Seppic developed a new model of in vitro evaluation. Tested on this model, EoAA is able to protect young cells from senescence induced by SMS, offering the solution to reduce contagious ageing. Catherine Kern, PhD, Innovation & Development in Life Sciences, said: “Bibliographic review showed us the emergence of a new concept about contagious ageing, meaning that senescent cells were able to affect young cells by Senescence Messaging Secretome, also called SMS. This allowed us to propose the development of a new model of evaluation.”


Innovation based on little-known species According to the National Museum of Natural History, France has the second largest maritime area in the world (marine


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


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