back to basics: toners tone up
If you ask any client what skin care products they use on a daily basis, the likelihood is that you won’t hear the word ‘toner’.
The toner has become the black sheep of daily skin care, disregarded for its optionality and often notoriously mis-labelled for its drying effects on the skin. This may have originated from truth in previous years, however new research and understanding in skin care has resulted in toners that have beneficial active ingredients, improving the skin’s texture, tone and general health.
Therefore, it is your responsibility to educate each customer about the importance and benefits of including a toner in their skin care routine.
the bad reputation
Toners were created to remove any remaining cleanser while balancing the skin’s pH levels. Historically, the toners of old contained drying ingredients which left the face feeling taut and flaky.
“The traditional tonic or toner had a tendency to contain a high concentration of alcohol which acts as an astringent. It has a tendency to dry out the skin and strip it of its essential NMF (Natural Moisturising Factor) and often put people off using it,” explains Noella Gabriel, Co-Founder and Managing Director of Elemis.
“The toner would strip the skin of its natural hydro-lipid barrier, leaving it vulnerable to evaporation of water and penetration of pollutants and airborne bacteria,” adds Sally
Penford, Education Manager for the International Dermal Institute®
.
Unsurprisingly, many clients have opted to omit the toning step, but improved knowledge and consequent product developments have led the toner to reinstate its place in the ‘cleanse, tone and moisturise’ mantra.
Water-soluble cleansers now clean skin without damaging its delicate pH balance. However, this is no longer the toner’s primary use. A cocktail of active ingredients means toners have found a new way to treat the skin; replenishing, calming, brightening, rebalancing and repairing where required.
“We know that the skin needs its natural barrier in order to remain supple, moist and luminous. We also know that stinging is not a good sign and in fact it is your skin’s immune system screaming, ‘stop!’,” comments Sally. Due to this understanding, brands have now instated water-based toners which contain active ingredients with plant extracts and essential oils to help pamper our skin rather than parch it.
“A toner’s job is to bring balance to the skin, so make sure the ingredients support your [clients’] skin needs. Avoid alcohol-based toners and have a toner best suited to your skin type,” explains Noella. Alcoholic toners can cause free-radical damage and irritation, damaging the skin’s ability to repair itself. It is important to look for ingredients such as antioxidants, skin-repairing substances such as glycerin, fatty acids and ceramides to replace the alcohol, which will repair and restore.
“Starting [by wiping the toner] from the base of the neck will work against gravity and
won’t drag the skin down any more than it already is, and working outwards will have a draining effect as you will encourage the waste elements in the skin out of the lymph nodes situated around the edge of the face,” explains Salon Owner and Beauty Trainer, Marie-Louise Coster.
Some toners are available in spray form and can be applied in the morning after cleansing or throughout the day over make-up as a refreshing pick-me-up to supply skin with the essentials it needs.
“The spritz may be of a hydrating nature with humectants to bind water or a soothing toner that leaves anti-inflammatory botanicals on the skin to calm and soothe. Whatever the choices, make sure that your [clients’] cleanser is removing the grime, [their] toner enhancing the hydro-lipid film and [their] moisturiser protecting and sealing in all of those great ingredients,” suggests Sally.
decode your type
Choosing the right toner for your client needn’t be traumatic. Dr Des Fernandes, Founder of Environ Skin Care explains the ingredients you should look out for to treat each skin type: “If [your client] has oily skin, [they] will need a toner that helps to minimise oil. A toner with a Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA), e.g. Salicylic acid, as one of the ingredients should be useful to help penetrate through the sebum and also temporarily reduce [it].
“If [they] have rough skin with a thickened horny layer, caused by sun-damage or Acne, [they] will benefit from either an AHA or BHA based toner to facilitate penetration of the active ingredients that will follow.
“[Alternatively], if [your client] has fine delicate skin with a thin horny layer, then [they] should not really need any toner. The horny layer should be disturbed as little as possible.”
“Most cleansers will have a corresponding toner, so display them in families and always retail together, as one is very little use without the other,” suggests Marie-Louise. “I always relate them to everyday things so as clients understand, so just as they wouldn’t have cornflakes without milk or Ant without Dec, they shouldn’t have a cleanser without a toner.
“The two together are essential for the skin and ensure that the skin is clean and prepared so their moisturiser can work effectively.”
By soaking two cotton pads, the product can be wiped upwards from the base of the neck and then outwards on the face.
Turn the page to reveal some of the latest toners available on the market…
84 GUILD NEWS
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