In front of me is Burnside Park - the regal equestrian statue of American CivilWar general Ambrose Burnside greets me, as does a shaded bench. I take a seat and do what you’re supposed to do in Providence: I take out a book, read and relax. For a change.
Along with its ever-present charm of 18th and 19th century residences,Federal and Greek Revival-style structures, and the watery swath of the Narragansett River ribboning through its very heart, Providence’s star feature is undoubtedly WaterFire, the ongoing experiential art installation featuring fire baskets filled with burning logs which line the river - a spectacular flaming attraction.
Providence also feels as smart as it looks. This is due, in great part, to its plethora of centralized academia: famed Johnson andWales resides here,as does Rhode Island University. Along its renowned East Side,Brown University and the Rhode Island School of Design (RISD,or “Ris-D”as it’s called by the locals) add youth and vibrancy to this well- established enclave.
I won’t deny being particularly drawn to this city’s booming food scene.
Journalists, Yelpers and daily cravers like me that will make unapologetic pilgrim-
72 September October 2015
ages toward the country’s best culinary destinations,and all seem to rave about the thriving restaurant biz in Providence, rivaling the likes of Charleston,SC, Portland,OR,and Philadelphia,PA.
I found a majority of notable eateries to be located a mere ten-minute walk from my hotel,especially up Federal Hill in the Little Italy section,where shops after storefronts offer Italian market special- ties, kitchenware,cafes and long-running restaurants.
The very hub of Federal Hill is DePasquale Plaza,a trendy and most- friendly piazza,or square,holding a burbling fountain,many tables and featuring free live entertainment in warmer months. I noted that no matter how crowded this plaza appeared on any given night, the vibe here is subdued, like one long-running alfresco dinner party with family and friends.
“That’s Rhode Island’s mentality,”or so I was told by Armando Biscoglia, proprietor of Zooma Trattoria,which is his physical homage to the art of Neapolitan food,wine and culture,and where I enjoyed a hearty bowl of Cozza di Stagione (plump local mussels with white wine and garlic),and Triangoli di Bufala (buttery pasta cocooning ethereal mozzarella cheese). “It’s small here and
we’re friendly with one another. It’s a place where I know you and you know me.”
And I certainly know a great meal when I’ve eaten one. Armando’s Zooma is a standout amid blocks-worth of great eateries. I don’t opt for dessert here, though. Instead, I go for a sweet after- dinner repast at Pastiche,a Parisian-style dessert café and one of, if not the best bakery in the entire city. The chocolate mousse cake beckoned, but the butter- scotch crumb cake had me at first glance. Yum!
“Walkable”is an understatement here in Providence. Like Rhode Island as a whole (whatever there is of this smallest of states),where it only takes 25-minutes to drive from south to north,and forty to get from east to west (or v-v),Providence is fittingly compact. It’s where“a five mile walk is a long way,” a local assured me.
Alighting from my park bench, I made my way over to the centrally located river walk lined with colorful flower baskets spraying the red of geraniums and hanging gaily from black iron lampposts. I soon found myself within The Arcade. Built in 1828, this is America’s oldest inte- rior mall - a giant arching tunnel running through one city block,and housing sev- eral interesting shops.
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