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TROUBLESHOOTER A little TLC goes a long way


Having previously looked at the needle and the thread, their relationship with each other and the machine, we now turn our attention to the machine itself. We asked the experts at YES Ltd for their advice.


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ost of what we will be talking about here is basic stuff and should apply to most, if not all, machines on the market but, if in any doubt, please contact your supplier. Maintaining the stability and quality of your machine is vital to producing quality embroidery economically. But over the years we have spent in this industry, we have noticed that as the machine gets older maintenance or servicing seems to diminish. Many warranties are reliant on regular servicing so maybe this has some influence on the situation. We can point to many occasions where our technicians have visited a breakdown only to find that the problem is down to lack of care and I am sure our technical colleagues from other suppliers have had the same experience. Maintenance and servicing are, in truth, different sides of the same coin. The first is mostly performed on site by the machine operator or technician whereas servicing is, in the main, performed by a visiting technician usually from the supplier. Both are important and the latter is usually less expensive if the former is performed correctly. Machines will differ in the type of maintenance regime they need but two areas are common to all machines, cleanliness and lubrication.


It may seem obvious to say “keep your machine clean”, especially as you are placing your customersʼ garments on it but it goes much deeper than the bits you can see on the surface. For instance most textiles leave a residue behind them referred to as ʻflyʼ or ʻdustʼ and this gets everywhere. What you can see on top of the machine is only half the story. The thread path, both top and bottom, can easily become clogged and impair the efficiency of the operation.


Under thread tension


The embroidery thread passes through and around a number of guides and wheels on its way to the needle and this is where the thread tension is set. If this changes in any way, for instance a build up of matter in the guides, then the thread tension is likely to increase and change the look and quality of the embroidery.


If this happens underneath, around the bobbin, then the under thread tension will likewise be affected resulting in changed tensions or maybe even missed stitches.


Thread tension is a balance between top and bottom threads so if something affects one then it will leave its mark on the other. Tensions are something we will cover in the future but, for now, suffice to say that any imbalance here will not bode well for your quality standards.


produces much more ʻflyʼ than knitwear so, if you are embroidering jeans pockets, you will need a more regular cleaning regime.


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The method of cleaning will depend on what you have available. It may be a simple wipe around with a clean cloth is all that is needed – you can use the newer anti-stat cloth which attracts dust to them while, at the same time, neutralising static. For more serious contamination then an airline or vacuum (with an adaptor) may be a better solution. A word of warning where airlines are concerned though – air delivered under pressure can be dangerous and should never be aimed at any part of the body.


Although an airline is probably the easiest method it is worth noting that all it does is disturb the dust which, having nowhere else to go, will simply settle back down. Apart from these two areas, the machine should be kept generally clean and tidy. Making suggestions such as “donʼt leave loose needles,


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eeping these areas clean will reap obvious benefits so how often should this be done? This very often depends on what you are embroidering as, for instance, denim


MAINTENANCE: Oiling the hook area with an aerosol.


machine parts and tools on the machine when it is working” may seem obvious but you would be surprised at how many bent needle bars we have seen because not enough care was taken. There is a saying that goes along the lines of ʻcleanliness is next to Godlinessʼ. In embroidery, cleanliness is next to profitability.


il may not be conducive to cleanliness but it is not only important, but necessary. Your machine has many metal parts that move against and with other metal parts. The oil is there to help them move smoothly against each other and to reduce the level of frictional heat. Not just any old oil will do though so make sure you use what is recommended and not make do with a can of 3 in 1.


O Automatic oiling system


The oil used in and on sewing machines has been developed for that purpose and is the ONLY one you should use. One litre of it goes a long way and costs relatively little. The newer SWF machines have an automatic oiling system which delivers oil to the main areas of the machine but not all.


Areas such as the bobbin race still have to be oiled manually and hard to reach areas like these are best dealt with by using aerosol oil such as Em-Lube. For those of you with machines that do not benefit from auto-lubrication then you will need to refer to your machine manual which will show you where the lubrication points are on the machine. These will differ from machine to machine but, in most cases, will be marked with something like a red dot as well as being shown in the manual. There will also be an oiling regime in the manual which will tell you how often this should be carried out. No matter how busy you are DO NOT ignore this. Running a machine that is not correctly lubricated is a risk not worth taking. From a business point of view your embroidery machine is probably the single most expensive piece of equipment you have and is the fulcrum on which your business rests and therefore deserves the best attention you can give it. Saving a few pennies here could cost many pounds later on. ■ Should you wish to contact Your Embroidery Services Ltd you can do so on 01623 863343 or email sales@yesltd.co.uk Next month we will be looking at, among other things, thread tensions.


August 2012 | 37 |


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