Nautical Research Journal
as accurately as possible. T e stern cant frames are square to the centerline and are also glued to the jig. T e locations of the stern frames are not notched, but the locations where the frames are glued are shown on the drawing. (Figure 3)
6. Part of one of the sub-assemblies being glued at the butt ends. Note that the dotted lines show the second layer of the assembly. T ese assemblies are sized for frames B through T.
reference plane which is shown on the drawings. T at reference plane contains a plan view outline of the frame extension locations in relation to the keel. T is plane is placed on a jig, and is the key to this model’s construction. Two of the extreme inverted full frames are glued to the jig. T e keel is then glued to the frames. T e remaining frames are installed, and the model is cut free of the jig along the model’s sheer line on the frames.
Details Once the frame jig drawing is obtained of suitable size, it needs to be glued to the smooth side of a tempered hardboard panel using spray adhesive. Do not use white glue as it wrinkles the drawings. T en the panel is cut in a rectangle shape on the outside edges. A wooden box (Figure 2) is made about 10 inches deep, with a rabbeted top lip to support the jig. T e jig is used to hold and assemble the frames and later can be inverted and placed inside the box to protect the frames when activity is suspended.
T e jig panel interior is removed with a jig saw or coping saw. T e frame numbers and letters are shown on the outside of the respective slot that accepts them. T ese need to be protected during this eff ort. Make sure the recesses for each frame are cut
Once the jig is built, attention swings to making the frames. Each frame is made from a pair of built-up sub-assembly blanks. Make suitable copies of the frame assembly blank drawings, noting that there are two diff erent halves to each assembly for the various frames. I needed two copies of each sub-assembly blank drawing for each frame assembly, since one drawing shows two sub-assemblies. T e two halves of a sub-assembly diff er slightly in order to stagger the butts of each half frame, and to employ straight wood grain. (Figure 4) When glued together, the two halves make a very strong frame. I placed the blank pieces on the drawing and glued the butt ends together. T is causes the drawing to stick to the blank. Make the two blank halves, remove stuck paper, and then glue the two halves together. (Figure 5)
I purchased poplar hardwood from a local box store for the frame material. I also bought a veneer saw blade for my table saw and replaced the large saw blade insert with a zero-clearance insert. I could not locate such an insert for my saw so I made one from tempered hardboard. Once the insert was installed in the table saw, along with the veneer blade, the saw was turned on and the blade was raised, cutting a zero-clearance kerf in the tempered hardboard insert. I then cut the 1-inch-wide poplar into strips a little thicker than 1/8-inch. When two strips are glued together, the total frame thickness is a little over ¼-inch; the frame thickness is needed so it can be sanded down to its fi nished dimension. T is is a very repetitive process, but can be made to go fairly fast if one makes many of the similar sizes together. I chose to use the table saw miter gauge to achieve the correct angles, and placed masking tape on the saw table to get the lengths of the poplar consistently the same.
Glue the ends of the respective sub-assemblies together according to the drawing. T ere will be two diff erent sub-assemblies for each frame. (Figure
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