Vol. 64, No. 1 Spring 2019 84


or smaller. I used 3/8-inch-thick Plexiglas because I had a small piece that was just the right width. I rounded the pointed ends just a bit so there is nothing to grab at the wood strip. Find a knob that works for you and then get the fl at head machine screw to pair up with the knob. I cut a slot in the aluminum fl at stock so that tightening the knob locks the Plexiglas’s adjustment to the blade and tightens the fi t of the aluminum piece in the saw’s miter track, but this is not necessary for the jig to function.


4. T e Plexiglas jig.


upcoming project that would require cutting a lot of thin strips, so I made a new jig from scrap Plexiglas I had in the shop and some aluminum bar stock from the local hardware store. I also picked up a plastic knob and a fl at head machine screw to fi t the handle’s 8-32 thread. (Figure 4)


T e drawing (Figure 5) shows sizes for the Byrnes saw—just change what is needed if your saw is bigger


T e aluminum stock can be cut with a slitting blade or a carbide tipped blade. I cut the slot in the aluminum bar with a carbide tipped blade on my Byrnes saw the same way one cuts the slot in a zero clearance insert. T e carbide tipped blade’s width is the perfect width for the slot so it is one time and done. I did use my Sherline mill to make the slot in the Plexiglas and could have used it to make the slot in the aluminum too.


5. Drawing


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