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Nautical Research Journal 9


8. My home-made clamping device for assembling the frame halves.


Sometimes the frame ends that were in the bilge were pickled in salt brine to reduce rot. Such timbers were marked with the word “Salt”, or the letter “S”.


At this time I pegged the frame assembly by drilling very small holes at the butt ends of the overlapped sub-assemblies, and installed the trunnels. T ese are made by pulling small dowels of wood through a steel plate with predrilled holes of the required size. Pull the wood through successively smaller holes until the needed size is achieved. I experimented with various gauges and pre-drilled steel until I achieved the size I wanted. Place the steel plate in a vice. Shape the somewhat larger wood dowel, such as a toothpick, bamboo skewer, or slice of mahogany, and put a point on the wood. Poke it into the steel plate hole, letting it extend out the other side. T en


pull it through successively smaller holes with a pair of vice grips. You will eventually get sections of dowels suitable to cut and tap into the holes in the frames, with a touch of glue to hold them in place.


Once the frame pieces are glued together, it is time to cut it into a frame. Using a fi ne blade on a jig or coping saw, trim the frame to the frame drawing, leaving the line. T en sand the facing on both sides either by hand or with a stationary belt sander, sanding the trunnels smooth and removing any traces of paper previously glued to the frames. T e goal is to get the frame thickness to ¼-inch. Note that, if you look at the frames from the outside, you will see the butt ends of the futtocks. T ese could be made sharper if, prior to initial gluing, the ends were painted black. Eventually you will end up with a complete set of


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