SUBJECT ❘ FRANCE’S
Canal de l’Orb and Pont Vieux along the way. Both bridges are architectural gems, as is the Cathédrale Saint-Nazaire overlooking them.
A FEAT OF ENGINEERING Finally, we enjoy one of our favourite experiences on the trip: the immersive cinema at the Écluses de Fonseranes visitor centre. Here, with headphones on for commentary, we are surrounded by the action as the story of this most impressive and arguably the most scenic section of the Canal du Midi unfolds. What comes across more than anything is what an epic undertaking the canal was for Riquet, helped by legions of labourers. It certainly wasn’t all plain sailing. To pick up the story about Colbert, he was convinced (with King Louis XIV breathing down his neck, no doubt) that the Tunnel de Malpas would collapse due to the hill’s crumbly subsoil. But, undaunted, Riquet had the sheer chutzpah to build it in secret using structural supports – tunnel vision, you might say. Sadly, the engineering genius died just eight months before the canal was completed. But his legacy lives on: today, his remarkable achievements are celebrated both locally and globally – the area was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. It is also a Grand Site de France ‘en projet’ (aiming for full status in due course). So, if you’re lucky enough to visit this corner of France be sure to take the time, slow tourism- style, to explore it to the full. As well as being exceedingly beautiful, it’s surprisingly rich in history and offers plenty to enjoy, both on and off the canal. FT
CANAL DU MIDI ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE BY PLANE Fly to Béziers Cap d’Agde airport with Ryanair from London (Stansted and Luton), Bristol, Manchester and Edinburgh as well as Paris Beauvais. Alternatively, fly to Carcassonne or Montpellier (both have budget operators).
BY CAR
Head to Béziers via the A61 from Toulouse, Carcassonne or Narbonne. It is around seven hours from Paris.
BY TRAIN There are six trains from Paris direct to Béziers per day, journey time around four hours.
ACCOMMODATION À l’Orée des Vignes: A comfortable chambres d’hôtes near Montady with a nice pool, run by a lovely couple.
aloreedesvignes.com Aux Roses de l’Étang: Well located and characterful chambres d’hôtes in Capestang with pool.
auxrosesdeletang.fr
CONTACTS For information on visiting Béziers and the Écluses de Fonseranes see
www.beziers-mediterranee.com For the Tunnel de Malpas, Oppidum d’Ensérune, and Colombiers area:
www.tourismeendomitienne.com For the Capestang and Poilhes area:
tourismecanaldumidi.fr Replantons Le Canal du Midi:
www.replantonslecanaldumidi.fr
Feb/Mar 2023 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 87
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