THE VENDÉE ❘ PAYS DE SAINT GILLES CROIX DE VIE
FOCUS ON... PAYS DE SAINT GILLES CROIX DE VIE
“THE PICTURESQUE PATCHWORK OF SALT MARSHES IS A BIRD-WATCHING PARADISE AND DOTTED WITH TRADITIONAL SALT FARMS”
C
urling its way along the wind- weathered sea cliffs from Saint Hilaire de Riez, the Corniche
Vendéene serves as a cinematic entryway to the port city of Saint Gilles Croix de Vie. Explore by bike or on foot to give yourself time to savour the views – both the GR8 hiking trail and the Vélodyssée follow the coastal road – pausing to admire the old lighthouse and gaze out at the rocky landmarks of the Trou du Diable and Cinq Pineaux before swooping down into the equally picturesque port.
A town of two halves, Saint Gilles Croix de Vie sits astride La Vie, the river that flows down from the saltwater marshes of the Marais and through the heart of the city to meet the Atlantic. On the right bank is the fishing village of Croix-de-Vie with its lively fishing port and marina; on the left bank, the Old Town of Saint Gilles sur Vie with its tangle of cobbled shopping lanes.
FROM SARDINES TO SALT The aptly named Chemin de la Sardine will lead you on a tour of Saint Gilles’ fishing heritage – follow the shoals of blue fish painted on the ground to 14
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points of interest around Croix-de-Vie. Stop by the Escale Pêche museum for an interactive deep-dive into the workings of the Vendée’s second-largest fishing port, taste the city’s beloved sardines at Le Banc des Sardines, and stroll around the Port de Pêche, where the town’s 40-strong fleet of fishing vessels set sail each morning. If you’re lucky enough to be visiting in spring, the three-week Le Printemps de la Sardine festival is held here, celebrating the start of the sardine season (mid-April through October); in winter, the prized catch is pink shrimp. For an immersive experience, you can join an early morning tour to attend the lively port-side fishermen’s auction (book through the Pays de Saint Gilles Croix de Vie tourist offices). Nearby, shuttle boats zip across the port to the Grande Plage and ferries set sail for the Île d’Yeu an hour away, a popular choice for day-trippers. Alternatively, cross the bridge in the Old Town, where you can follow another walking tour, this time denoted by red sailboats and linking the historic monuments of Saint-Gilles-sur-Vie. Tag on a visit to the Atelier de la Sardine
IMAGES © R. J GAZEAU, A. LAMOUREUX,
M.CHAIGNEAU, FARID MAKHLOUF, DESTINATION CÔTE ATLANTIQUE
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