FRANCE’S WATERWAYS ❘ CANAL DU MIDI


“THE BEAUTIFUL HÉRAULT SCENERY HAS BEEN EVERY BIT AS DELIGHTFUL AS THE HISTORICAL SIGHTS”


What’s more, the museum tells the fascinating story of the Oppidum’s excavation by archaeologists following its discovery by Abbot Giniès in 1860. But perhaps the most interesting aspect of the site is its necropolis (burial ground) where the remains of hundreds of its former inhabitants have been unearthed. Several of these have been ‘brought back to life’ so convincingly inside the museum that the effect is really quite moving. But that’s not all the site has to offer. It also overlooks the Étang de Montady which is quite unlike anything we’ve seen in the south of France or anywhere else – from high up it looks like a giant dartboard. In fact, this dried lake (étang) was developed in the middle ages as a drainage system to increase arable land, improve irrigation, and combat insect infestation. Amazingly, the tunnel that channels the water is still in use today. Later, via more information at the Maison de Malpas visitor centre, located right


Clockwise from above: The extraordinary Étang de Montady; enormous wine casks at the Château de Colombiers; ‘magical’ paintings at the Château des Archevêques in Capestang; the Collégiale church at Capestang; the port area at Capestang; atop the bell tower at the church in Capestang; the Oppidum d’Ensérune museum; the cinema at the Écluses de Fonseranes


next to the canal tunnel, we begin to piece together a detailed picture of the area. In effect, it’s an historical crossroads where antiquity and modernity meet: in addition to the other tunnels, the Via Domitia Roman road, which traverses the area, is the oldest in France, and there’s a railway tunnel connecting Bordeaux and Sète. We also learn that Malpas means ‘bad crossing’, but there’s nothing negative about what we’ve seen so far. On the contrary, the beautiful Hérault scenery, which has more than a hint of Provence or Tuscany about it, has been every bit as delightful as the historical sights. The next day we take a short drive further west to Capestang. This village is best known as a pretty port on the canal, but its centre is equally charming and offers plenty more of interest. At the 14th-century Collégiale Saint-Étienne, which overlooks the market square, we meet up with Dominique Saillard for a guided tour. This begins very interestingly with an introduction to the church’s history, then proceeds to our favourite part, the bell tower (clocher). In a ‘secret room’ half way up, Dominique shows us a chess board


84 ❘ FRANCE TODAY Feb/Mar 2023


IMAGES © STEVE TURNBULL


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