TOP TABLES ❘ À LA CARTE
cook with, as seen in dishes like marinated sea bream with a lovage condiment; monkfish with turnips and a reduction of citrus fruits with spices; breaded veal sweetbreads with a Grenobloise garnish; and beef with green pepper and smoked sardine.
Though we thoroughly enjoyed Monsieur
Clockwise from above: Diego Delbecq and Camille Pailleau at Rozo; Le Favori in Cheverny; amuses- bouches at Le Favori
Dhiab’s cooking, a service style that’s less formal and aloof would render a meal here even more of a pleasure. That said, Dhiab is a rising young talent to catch now in Paris. 23 rue Herold, 1st arrondissement, Tel. (33) 01 42 33 52 47. Lunch menus €39, €58, €98; dinner menus €98, €128, €148.
www.omardhiab.com
ROZO, MARCQ-EN-BARŒUL
One of the most interesting and satisfying dining trends in France is that many talented young French chefs no longer aspire to open their own restaurants after training in Paris but return to their home turf to hang out a first shingle instead. A perfect example is the exceptionally talented Diego Delbecq, who returned to his native Lille after working at the Meurice and the Plaza Athenée hotels in Paris. Together with his partner, Camille Pailleau, a brilliant pastry cook, Delbecq has just opened a new restaurant in a former brick printing plant in a suburb of Lille. The striking space, with a mezzanine gallery and oak floors, is furnished with tweed-covered Little Tulip chairs by designer Pierre Paulin and pedestal tables, and it’s a dramatic backdrop for some intriguing modern French cooking based on the best quality seasonal produce and an
“WE HAD A JAW-DROPPINGLY SENSUAL EXPERIENCE OF RUNNY EGG YOLK, CREAM, CAVIAR, AND PORCINE PLEASURE ALL AT ONCE”
occasional nod at regional gastronomy. Joining friends from London for lunch not long after they’d emerged from the Eurotunnel on their way south, we began with red mullet and fennel in a punchy sauce Genevoise (red wine reduction with spices) and then had skate wing with artichokes and a coriander condiment. Both dishes were exceptionally pleasant, as was a dessert of rhubarb with almond milk. 34 Rue Raymond Derain, Marcq-en-Barœul, Tel. (33) 03 62 27 72 52, Prix-fixe menu €39, €67, €89 and €105.
www.restaurant-rozo.fr
LE FAVORI, CHEVERNY
Les Sources de Cheverny is the loveliest new hotel to have opened in the Loire Valley for a very long time, and now it’s opened its gastronomic restaurant, Le Favori (L’Auberge, its casual table, has been open since the hotel unlocked its doors), where chef Frédéric Calmels holds forth in a handsome, casually elegant oak-beam-and-post contemporary dining room with high ceilings and big picture windows. Calmels’ appealing menu stars the superb vegetables of the Loire Valley along with other local produce. Astutely understanding that simplicity is what the urbanites who frequent the hotel appreciate at a table in the countryside, Calmels serves fresh, uncomplicated dishes like butternut squash braised in whisky with lobster in orange essence, kohlrabi with fermented mushrooms and beef sirloin marinated in saté sauce, and sunflower honey with meringue garnished with candied sage leaves. An excellent choice for a meal in the Loire even if you’re not staying at the hotel. 23 route de Fougère, Cheverny, Lunch menu (Saturday and Sunday only) €90; prix-fixe menus €120, €180. Tel. (33) 02 54 44 20 20,
www.sources-cheverny.com FT
Feb/Mar 2023 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 77
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