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GRAND CRUS ❘ FRENCH WINE


CONTROL CRUS A dazzling now coffee table book


showcases the châteaux and estates of the 1855 Grand Crus classifi cation in the Bordeaux wine region. Historian Stéphane Bern introduces the prestigious region and its enduring appeal for visitors and wine lovers


H


istorical, as well as architectural, natural, gastronomic, and intangible: the heritage of Bordeaux’s grands crus classés has been synonymous with French excellence for nearly 160 years. This epic story began in 1855 at the World’s Fair, organised in Paris by Emperor


Napoleon III. The owners of Bordeaux’s vineyards were asked to present the best of French terroir – that is, the most popular and sought-after grand crus, which were divided into fi ve categories.


Since then, the 87 estates featured in the classifi cation have helped shape the international reputations of Médoc and Sauternes, working tirelessly to perfect the charming wines produced in the appellations of Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac, or Saint-Estèphe, among others. This is, indeed, a remarkable heritage, for although Bordeaux’s châteaux are of great architectural and historical interest, they are also recognised around the world thanks to their labels, which travel to every corner of the globe, offering the promise of reverie, pleasure, and incredible fl avours, all contained in a bottle. Rather than evoking military feats, sieges, or battles, their names refl ect the relentless work of those who cultivate the richness of the terroir and strive to develop a distinctly French art de vivre, with all of its sophisticated expertise: Château Lafi te-Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Margaux, Château Mouton-Rothschild, Château Haut-Brion, and, of course, Château d’Yquem, to cite only the premiers crus in Médoc and the premier cru supérieur in Sauternes. But there are many other charming estates to visit and savour on this list. These châteaux form a map of French heritage sites, even if some visitors are more interested in viewing casks and cellars than ballrooms or fortifi cations. Those in search of this patrimony will be captivated by the verdant backdrop that sets off the estates – not formal gardens, but vineyards stretching as far as the eye can see. The 1855 grands crus classés form an exceptional ensemble united by a common destiny that nevertheless allows for an abundant diversity of varietals as well as architectural constructions. Does any other region in France enjoy such worldwide renown? Each bottle, each label, extends an


❯❯ Feb/Mar 2023 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 65


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