TOP TABLES ❘ À LA CARTE


meal, and I’ve been thinking about it ever since. Part of a new generation of gastronomic talent, Jérôme Schilling, who already has two Michelin stars, has become one of the great chefs of France, and though hardly inexpensive, the prix-fixe menus he serves represent remarkable value for money relative to the shimmering excellence of his cooking.  Lieu-dit Peyraguey, Bommes, Tel. (33) 05 24 22 80 11. Prix-fixe menus €115, €150, €165, €195, €205 . www.lafauriepeyragueylalique.com


PRUNIER, PARIS


“Everyone remembers their first time at Prunier,” said Ruth Reichl, food writer and former editor- in-chief of the much-loved and now-shuttered Gourmet Magazine, when we recently met for lunch at this supremely elegant Art Deco dining room behind the Arc de Triomphe. For Reichl, it was a meal with her parents to which she wore a newly purchased little black dress. “I loved the dress, my Paris dress, but it was the food I never forgot. I think it was the first time I ever had a real sole meunière and it was so beautifully deboned tableside by a waiter in a black dinner jacket who then spooned melted butter over the golden filets of fish and the perfectly peeled and whittled boiled potatoes that accompanied it,” she told me. So I knew exactly what she’d be having as a main course. We decided to dine at this expensive 1924 vintage grande dame of a restaurant because we wanted to sample the new menu Michelin three-star chef Yannick Alléno had recently devised for it. It didn’t disappoint either. In fact, we had an absolutely sumptuous meal. ❯❯


Clockwise from top: The divine dining room at Prunier; chef Yannick Alléno; langoustines served in caviar cream


Feb/Mar 2023 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 75


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