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FRENCH WINE ❘ GRAND CRUS


IN FOCUS Château d’Yquem, a legendary wine Premier Grand Cru Classé Supérieur, Sauternes


Château d’Yquem is at once a legend, a miracle of nature, and a wine like no other. Open a bottle of Yquem and time stands still. Yquem has universal charm; it moves the heart, soul, and senses of everyone who tastes it. Château d’Yquem is an extraordinary


The leafy approach to Château Margaux, Premier Grand Cru Classé


white wines”. The brokers were the ideal choice for the job, since they managed to avoid the power struggles that pitted merchants against estate owners. They also had the best overall understanding of wine production and were as familiar with production techniques as they were with the workings of the trade. Moreover, their status as ministerial officers bound them to a certain level of integrity.


The classification was not based on a tasting: the Brokers’ Union and its deputies carried out a statistical analysis based on historical prices of 900-litre (238-gallon) casks produced by the estates. Inevitably, there were objections, but the fact remains: the classification was a landmark moment and the happy representatives of this “cork aristocracy” have endured over the years, their reputations intact, despite the ebb and flow of crises and trends.


The 1855 Classification in no way negates its competitors’ merits, but, for the last 167 years, it has been the only historic selection, comprising some of the most beautiful estates in the world, as Philippe Castéja, president of the Conseil des Grands Crus Classés en 1855, so accurately sums up: “It is an incredible challenge. It forces us to stay in the lead and remain the front runner. It is an incredible history that no one else can lay claim to.” FT


 Extracted from Bordeaux 1855, A Guide to the Grands Crus Classés by Conseil des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (Flammarion, 2022)


68 ❘ FRANCE TODAY Feb/Mar 2023


place, nestled atop the rolling hills of Sauternes, with 272 acres (110ha) of vineyards planted across a mosaic of terroirs. Everything is in place to produce a grape that brings out the most noble aspects of Botrytis cinerea. The fruit undergoes a complex process that leaves it laden with flavours and aromas found nowhere else in the world. This miracle is made possible by the dedication of experienced harvesters who have received age-old knowledge from the generations that preceded them. Only the best grapes, enhanced


by Botrytis cinerea, are harvested, in accordance with Yquem’s golden rule: never take the easy path or seek shortcuts and be prepared to lose everything. That’s the price to pay for excellence. A harvest of meticulously selected grapes sets the stage for cellar vinification that requires very little input. Barrel ageing is longer and adapted to the rhythm of the wine. The result must be perfection: here, it’s Yquem or it’s nothing at all. For centuries, Château d’Yquem has been served at the grandest celebrations and to the world’s most illustrious figures: from European kings to Russian czars to Japanese emperors. Epicureans and wine enthusiasts throughout the ages have always held this legendary elixir in the highest regard. The world’s best chefs serve Yquem in their restaurants and even create specifically tailored dishes in the quest for an incomparable pairing. These restaurants are beacons, projecting Yquem’s light into the world. Yquem’s aura shines beyond the realm of gastronomy; it has been hailed by great statesmen like George Washington and was named Premier Cru Classé Supérieur following Napoleon III’s 1855 request for classification. Château d’Yquem also inspires artists, sparking emotions in musicians, painters, poets, and writers.


French writer Frédéric Dard described Yquem as “light that one drinks”.


VINEYARD The Yquem estate is located on the slopes found along the right bank of the Céron River. Covering 465 acres (188ha) in total, it is both the most prestigious and the largest estate in Sauternes. The uninterrupted vineyard spans three hilltops over 272 acres (110ha), and is planted with Sémillon (80%) and Muscadelle (20%) on gravel soil over a foundation of clay.


TOURS & TASTINGS Since 2018, the château has offered exclusive tours for up to six visitors, by reservation only. A visit to Château d’Yquem is a voyage through 400 years of history and an exploration of an estate where art and craftsmanship unite to create a unique wine.


1. TRILOGY: Following a visit of the vineyard and winemaking facilities, you will taste three recent vintages of Château d’Yquem (2018, 2017, and 2016). Tasting 3 wines Price €€€


2. ANTHOLOGY: Following a tour of the estate, discover the heights of a legendary wine, with a tasting of three outstanding vintages of Château d’Yquem: 2015, 2009, and 2001. Tasting 3 wines Price €€€€


3. DISCOVERY: This private, guided tour is followed by a tasting of ‘Y’ 2018 and Château d’Yquem 2018. Tasting 2 wines Price €€€


GETTING THERE To reach Château d’Yquem, take the A62 highway south of Bordeaux and get off on the third exit (Tarbes, Pau, Langon), then take the D8 highway heading toward Sauternes.


ADDRESS


Château d’Yquem 33 210 Sauternes CONTACT


+33 (0)5 57 98 07 07 yquem.fr


IMAGE © B. BRAASTAD


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