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GRAND CRUS ❘ FRENCH WINE


Following common practice at international fairs, the wines sent in from different regions of France had to be tasted by a jury. Of this tasting only an amusing anecdote survives: the unfinished bottles were sent to the cafeterias of Paris’ hospitals “to revive the ill, unaccustomed to Château-Lafite wines,” according to author Mr. Saint-Amant. The jury’s winners were overshadowed by a history-making classification: the 1855 grands crus. To prepare for the World’s Fair in record time, the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce was tasked with organising “a complete and satisfying presentation of the department’s wines”. The Chamber president collected six bottles from each estate. For the sake of fairness, he had standardised labels created by the Chamber of Commerce, which were printed with the names of the château, town, and owner, added to each bottle. He then asked the Brokers’ Union, located near the Bordeaux stock exchange, to provide a “list of all the red classed-growths in the department” and “the classification regarding ❯❯


STAY AMONG THE VINES Château La Tour Carnet, Quatrième Grand Cru Classé in Haut-Médoc, is steeped in history as far back as the 12th-century.


It is easy to forget that for many of the nobles in the Médoc region, the Hundred Years’ War ended in defeat. The horseman for whom this château is named was loyal to the English and only ceded to the Valois troops after a bitter fight. The 12th-century moat and rectangular keep are reminders of these medieval exploits, and give the estate a unique historic cachet. Since 1999, La Tour Carnet has belonged to


Bernard Magrez, an iconic figure in the wine world and owner of 43 vineyards, including three other grands crus located in the most prestigious Bordeaux appellations. A shrewd expert, Magrez quickly began improving the vineyard and winery facilities by adopting some of the most advanced technology, including the use of drones to analyse plots to assign the most suitable grape varieties. Since 2013, the visionary Magrez has established a


ABOUT THE VINEYARD The vineyard (252ha of vines) gives prominence to Merlot, which occupies the western portion located on a small clay and limestone hill – a rare occurrence in Médoc’s geological profile. The gently sloping hillsides are reserved for Cabernet.


private collection of more than 80 varietals in order to observe how well they resist the effects of climate change, and if they might replace current grape varieties in the event of a marked change in sun, temperature, or humidity in the region. Here, Merlot is vinified in concrete vats in order to preserve and intensify the fruit aromas, while wood is used for the more robust Cabernet. During élévage, wood envelops and brings out the fruit to obtain wines that are expressive and generous, and as equally suited to ageing as they are to being enjoyed young.


GETTING THERE Château La Tour Carnet is located within the commune of Saint-Laurent-Médoc, about 31 miles (50 km) north of Bordeaux, or a ten- minute drive from Pauillac.


ADDRESS Château La Tour Carnet Darrous 33 112 Saint-Laurent-Médoc


CONTACT


+33 (0)5 57 26 38 34 visiteschateaux@ bernard-magrez.com luxurywineexperience. com


Feb/Mar 2023 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 67


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