THE VENDÉE ❘ GREAT DESTINATIONS
“WITH 2,500 HOURS OF ANNUAL SUNSHINE, IT’S LITTLE SURPRISE THAT HOLIDAYMAKERS SPEND MOST OF THEIR TIME OUTDOORS”
Clockwise from above: Treat yourself to oysters at Les Viviers de la Guittière; stilted wooden fi shing huts at Beauvoir-sur-Mer; indulge in some wine-tasting at Vignobles
Mourat; in La Roche-sur-Yon some interesting creatures await you; the distinctive rooftops of Fontenay-le-Comte; step back in time at the Logis de la Chabotterie; boating on the marais; you’re never too young to learn how to make salt!
TASTE OF THE TERROIR Any French region worth its salt has a few gastronomic specialities to tempt you on your travels, and the Vendée is no exception. Sea salt, for instance, is one of the region’s most famous exports: it is harvested in the salt marshes of Noirmoutier, the Marais Breton, and the Marais Salants around Saint Gilles Croix de Vie and Les Sables d’Olonne.
A visit to the salt marshes is a quintessential
Vendéen activity, where you can watch the salt-makers raking the salt pans to harvest the salt and taste local products such as salted butter or caramel à la fl eur de sel. In the Marais Breton, you can also visit the ports chinois of Bouin and Beauvoir, so-called for their stilted wooden fi shing huts that resemble those of China, or paddle a canoe around the scenic marshes of Sallertaine. Unsurprisingly, fi sh and seafood feature heavily on the Vendéen menu, too. Notable delicacies include sardines from Saint Gilles Croix de Vie, Sablaise (sole) from Les Sables d’Olonne, moules from the Baie de l’Aiguillon, and oysters from Noirmoutier. Oyster lovers can also visit France’s smallest oyster farm along the Payré estuary in the south (a worthwhile day trip with its Blue fl ag beach and unique coastline). Other regional specialities to look out for include duck, chicken, and foie gras from the market town of Challans, préfou (Vendéen garlic bread), jambon-mogettes (Vendéen ham served with traditional white beans), and, my personal favourite, brioche vendéenne (La Maison Planchot makes some of the tastiest). The Vendée also has a burgeoning oenotourism scene, with its fi ve Fief Vendéen wine regions – Brem, Chantonnay, Mareuil, Pissotte, and Vix –
114 ❘ FRANCE TODAY Feb/Mar 2023
receiving an AOC classifi cation back in 2011. A decade on, each region offers a dedicated wine route where you can sample small-production red, white and rosé wines.
THE HEART OF THE VENDÉE For a sensational introduction to the Vendée’s grisly history, attending the Puy du Fou’s evening show, Cinéscénie (see p.121) is unmatchable, and the epic theme park is by far the biggest draw to the north of the département. This rural pocket of the Vendée, known as the Bocage Vendéen, is also peppered with historic châteaux and heritage sites that set the scene of the infamous Vendée War. Visit the Historial de la Vendée museum and the Logis La Chabotterie to learn more about the fateful 18th-century uprising that foreshadowed much of the Vendée’s history and discover the signifi cance of the Vendée fl ag with its distinctive red hearts. Regional capital La Roche-sur-Yon makes an obvious base for further explorations, and it’s worth setting aside a day to take in the highlights. Be sure
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