CAROL DRINKWATER ❘ VIGNETTE WINTER WONDERS Carol takes a well-earned off-season break in the golden-hued City of Popes I
BY CAROL DRINKWATER
Above right and below: The first crate of olives
picked this season on Carol’s olive farm; Carol’s mum outside the Palais des Papes in Avignon; the magnificent Popes’ Palace in Avignon
have delivered the first draft of my new novel. We have harvested our olives, pressed the fruits at the mill and I have decanted our fine green-gold oil. Next comes the pruning of the olive trees. We don’t prune all the trees because that lessens the fruit for the year to come. We cut back about a third of them and leave the rest for next year or the year after. In this manner the trees are being cared for while others are keeping the cycle of flowering and fruiting. So, apart from land duties and awaiting feedback from my agent, I am free for a short period. I rejoice that this moment of liberty falls during winter: I love winter and the delights of visiting cities and seaside towns out of season. The thrill is deciding where to go. On this occasion, I choose Avignon, Cité des Papes, which is a two-hour drive from our Olive Farm. The last time I visited this inspiring city was with my late mother. It was autumn: the days were gloriously sunny, mild and bright with a sky so sharp and blue, it looked as though it could be cracked open with the tap of a spoon.
THE VATICAN IN PROVENCE If you have never visited Avignon, a brief history… it is the capital of the Vaucluse region and gateway to Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur, sitting on the left bank of the mighty Rhône river. It was named ‘Vatican in Provence’ because six popes resided here between 1335 and 1394. Its star attraction is its Palace of the Popes: UNESCO heritage-listed since 1995, it was built in the 14th century, and actually comprises two Popes’ Palaces united; it is the largest Gothic palace in the world and was famed for its library which housed over 2,000 books. Another must- see is the 12th-century bridge, Pont Saint-
Bénézet, also UNESCO heritage-listed. The French chanson, Sur le Pont d’Avignon, was inspired by this bridge. In July, when Avignon holds it annual theatre festival in the courtyard of the Palace, the city is buzzing. This year there is a new festival director, Tiago Rodrigues, who dreams of turning the entire city into a place for debate and celebration of the arts. He describes his project as “city- theatre, a luminous café for Europe”. His ideas are so exciting I might even brave the heat and crowds to participate!
“I MARVEL AT THE ARTISTRY OF THE RAMPARTS THAT ENCLOSE THE ANCIENT CITY, WHOSE STONES ARE GOLDEN EVEN IN THIS WINTER LIGHT”
Now, in winter, I stroll the narrow streets within the walled city, where the plane tree leaves are dropping slowly to the cobbled squares. I find myself a very modest two-star hotel, Le Médiéval, friendly and clean and hidden away on the incline of Rue Petite-Saunerie, which used to be known as Street of Old Cheese! Bed and breakfast, taxes included, costs €84. I dig around in the brocante shops, visit Les Halles market and stock up on Provençal delicacies. I marvel at the artistry of the ramparts that enclose the ancient city, whose stones are golden even in this winter light.
I eat a solitary dinner at another modest establishment, La Cuisine des Copains, a bistro founded four years ago by three friends to welcome ‘friends’. The following morning, I meander in the warm winter sun along the river bank watching small children marvelling at the swans and the beauty of all things. Thank you, Avignon, for this mini-break. FT Carol Drinkwater is an award-winning actress and the best-selling author of The Olive Farm series. Her latest work is An Act of Love, a story of bravery and courage in WWII France
80 ❘ FRANCE TODAY Feb/Mar 2023
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