LA MONGIE ❘ WINTER SPORTS
“SOME EVENINGS, THE LAST CABLE CAR LEAVES LATER TO ALLOW VISITORS TO WATCH THE SUNSET”
Clockwise from left: Up in the clouds at the unforgettable Pic du
Midi; a llama on the Col du Tourmalet mountain pass; relax and refuel at the Chalet des Pisteurs; if you’re heading to the
area in summer, you can explore the mountains by bicycle; why not
have a go at moto-neige while you’re here?
that usually tower above us. And there is perhaps no viewpoint more humbling, and frankly a little bit scary, than the end of the pontoon in the sky, a gravity-defying platform, like a giant diving board with a transparent fl oor, 10m long and seemingly suspended in mid-air above the mountains. Inside, the museum houses exhibitions and fi lms which document the history of the Pic du Midi and its place in astronomical history, from the placing of the fi rst basic buildings to the Bond villainesque dome that stands here today. It’s hard to imagine, but much of the original structure was transported to the top of the Pic du Midi on the backs of mules – and men – between 1907 and 1908. The observatory’s recently-built interactive exhibition explores the mysteries of the night sky, with plenty of buttons to press and surprises to uncover for younger visitors. Meanwhile, the planetarium lets you sit back in plush comfort and admire the constellations in one of the oldest parts of the observatory.
Some evenings, the last cable car leaves later to allow visitors to watch the sunset before they fl oat back down the mountain; and a lucky few stay on even longer. The Pic du Midi welcomes a small number of overnight visitors. Guests are treated to dinner, a tour of the scientifi c elements of the observatory – including areas that are not open to the general public – and an opportunity to stargaze with the experts. In the morning, there’s a chance to see the sun rise over the Pyrenees and a mountain-top breakfast. Competent skiers can follow a guide and ski all the way back down the mountain after their stay. Prices start at €255 per person and places are snapped up quickly – reservation well in advance is essential; bookings
are already open for 2024. (It’s worth knowing, too, that while some of the staff speak excellent English, the visit is conducted in French.) A week in Grand Tourmalet has given us the time to explore the area, push ourselves out of our comfort zones on the tougher slopes and enjoy skiing through some of the prettiest and most fun slopes as a whole family. On the last day, we head to the edge of the resort. We would have stopped at the Chalet des Pisteurs for a coffee, but it’s closed, the owners having thoughtfully (and thankfully) warned people with a sign at the bottom of the path, so no one would traipse up that steep track for nothing. We ski past the notice in family formation to the little two-person lift and let it carry us to top of that beautiful blue run at Quatre Termes. We take a breath, take in the scenery, and speed down the mountain one last time before the stars come out again. FT
LA MONGIE ESSENTIALS
CONTACTS L’Étape du Berger Open for self-service lunch and for set menus some evenings. Set menus cost €42 for adults. Reservation for dining and transport by skimobile or piste groomer essential.
etapeduberger.com
Chalet des Pisteurs Open day times only. +33 6 52 72 84 39
Pic du Midi Observatory, planetarium and visitors’ centre open throughout summer and winter. Overnight stays need to be reserved well in advance.
picdumidi.com;
www.tourmaletpicdumidi.fr/en
Feb/Mar 2023 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 109
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