6 COVER STORY: LIPOID KOSMETIK


Water Lily Pro - Perfect Volume for Urban Hair


Stefan Bänziger, Bernd Walzel, Bea Senti, Tamina Shah, Anja Herrmann – Lipoid Kosmetik


Water lily flowers are predominately visible above water and are seemingly the most attractive part of the plant. A closer look, however, uncovers that water lilies are exceptional underwater factories of phytochemicals. Their long and branched root system produces a unique combination of phytochemicals - all functional additives for hair care products. Hence, Lipoid Kosmetik developed Water Lily


Pro, an all-natural extract from water lily roots. Water lily invokes positive associations.


Together with its proven efficacy, Water Lily Pro is a powerful ingredient for hair care applications such as pollution protection, taming of frizzy hair and volume optimisation.


A symbol of beauty and purity Water lily - also known as Nymphaea alba, European white water lily, white water rose or white nenuphar - originates from the water and symbolises beauty, purity, and resurrection. Truly, water lilies are famous for their beauty. According to legend, a water lily was once a star that fell from the sky onto the water and changed into a beautiful flower. Water lily’s name ‘Nymphaea’ comes from the Greek word ‘nymph’ and according to Greek mythology, it symbolises a ‘feminine spirit’ that lives in water bodies like wells, waterways, and springs. In Hindu and


June 2021 PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS ● FORMULATION ●


MANUFACTURE GLOBAL


happy marriage that lasts for 100 years. All these associations make water lilies an ideal starting point to create water-based cosmetic concepts.


Exceptional underwater factories of phytochemicals Water lily is an aquatic plant that lives in temperate and tropical climates around the world. The plant is anchored with perennial rhizomes or rootstocks in the soil with round leaves and flowers floating on the water surface (Figure 1). A closer look uncovers that water lilies


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Buddhist traditions, water lilies are important religious symbols for purity, enlightenment, and resurrection, where beautiful blossoms emerge from the mud. In Chinese culture, water lilies are popular wedding flowers symbolising a


are exceptional underwater factories of phytochemicals. The submerged rootstocks store nutrients in up to 3 m water depth with no access to atmospheric oxygen or UV-light. They experience lower and more constant temperatures and higher pressure. As a result, their long and branched root system produces a unique combination of phytochemicals.


Roots provide functional benefits for hair care Water lilies originate from the water and convey the concept of water - this association makes water lilies an ideal starting point to create water-based cosmetic concepts, including rinse- off products, for example shampoos or bath products. Water lily flowers are by far the most


attractive part of the plant. However, when looking at phytochemicals, a different picture arises. The roots, especially the thickened root stalks (rhizomes) store saponins, flavonoids, and tannins with potential value for hair care applications: Saponins are natural biosurfactants that provide cleansing and conditioning. They lower the surface tension and increase the wettability of hair, making it more accessible to active ingredients in shampoos and conditioners. Flavonoids are antioxidants that provide protection. They prevent oxidative damage of hair fibres, pigments, and colour. Tannins are keratin enforcers that provide strength. They help to repair damaged hair by crosslinking keratin fibres.


Figure 1. Water lilies form beautiful underwater landscapes with submerged root systems. The different parts of the plant produce unique sets of phytochemicals from which the root extract provides the most promising phytochemicals for hair care applications.


PERSONAL CARE June 2021


Root extract unites emotional and functional benefits We argue that water lily flower extract is broadly used because of the flower’s emotional, aesthetic appeal, whereas water lily root extract is deliberately used to achieve functional benefits.


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