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Jarchem3CvAd 21.qxp_Layout 1 10/05/2021 16:49 Page 1 TRENDING TECHNOLOGIES


2. Paus R. Exploring the “brain-skin connection”: Leads and lessons from the hair follicle. Curr Res Transl Med. 2016; 64(4):207-214


3. Bigliardi PL, Bigliardi-Qi M, Buechner S, Rufli T. Expression of mu-opiate receptor in human epidermis and keratinocytes. J Invest Dermatol. 1998; 111(2):297-301.


4. Neumann C, Bigliardi-Qi M, Widmann C, Bigliardi PL. The delta-opioid receptor affects epidermal homeostasis via ERK-dependent inhibition of transcription factor POU2F3. J Invest Dermatol. 2015; 135(2):471-480.


5. Ho HK, Bigliardi PL, Stelmashenko O, Ramasamy S, Postlethwaite M, Bigliardi-Qi M. Functionally expressed bitter taste receptor TAS2R14 in human epidermal keratinocytes serves as a chemosensory receptor. Exp Dermatol 2021; 30(2):216-225.


of you. We generally believe that our mood can influence our organs holistically. There are publications suggesting how a positive or a negative predisposition can affect a condition, even a very serious condition, with the body releasing certain hormones. But what about the skin or the hair and how our mood or senses-related stimuli can affect our look? It was not until reading some articles published in the late 90s by Professor Paul Bigliardi, that I realised that even the skin can change physiologically based on the influence of neurotransmitters (including our very own and not just CBD…). The discovery by Paul of opiate receptors carried deep in the dermis by tiny neuro-fibres was groundbreaking.3 And the intimate connection between these receptors, the transmitters and skin thickness!4 More recently, the presence of smell receptors in the skin and hair triggering physiological changes.5-6


Can our senses change our skin


appearance? Probably yes… And what about our hair look and growth? Some recent work is evidencing how the hair follicle and dermal papilla cells can be directed to arrest growth by corticosteroids related molecules,7,8


and


how mediators like cortisol and cortisol spikes can determine the way our hair grows or sheds.9


We have clinical evidence that by


supplementing our body with phytochemical- based supplements we can change the way our hair and skin look.10,11


There is a bigger


picture, which as cosmetic scientists we need to consider when creating cosmetic products for skin and hair, and this is our inner self.


Conclusion Our body is one and our beauty depends on how we treat our body. Nothing deeper than that. Recent scientific discoveries explain how our senses are contributing to our appearance. We investigate how different ingredients, either applied topically or ingested, can help us maintain a healthy body and healthy look. The future is holistic, and science is now on our side!


References 1. Theoharides TC, Stewart JM, Taracanova A, Conti P, Zouboulis CC. Neuroendocrinology of the skin. Rev Endocr Metab Disord. 2016; 17(3):287-294


www.personalcaremagazine.com


6. Jimenez F, López E, Bertolini M, et al. Topical odorant application of the specific olfactory receptor OR2AT4 agonist, Sandalore® , improves telogen effluvium-associated parameters. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021; 20(3):784-791.


7. Dell’Acqua G, Richards A. Human hair follicle dermal papilla as an in vitro model to study stress-induced hair growth arrest. J Invest Dermatol, in press, 2021


8. Ito N, Ito T, Kromminga A, Bettermann A, Takigawa M, Kees F, Straub RH, Paus R. Human hair follicles display a functional equivalent of the hypothalamic-pituitary- adrenal axis and synthesize cortisol. FASEB J 2005; 19(10):1332-4.


9. Anzelone M, Richards A, Dell’Acqua G. Stress- induced hair loss benefits from a standardized nutraceutical. Naturopathic Doctor News & Review, May 2020


10. Ablon G, Kogan S. A six-month, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study evaluating the safety and efficacy of a nutraceutical supplement for promoting hair growth in women with self-perceived thinning hair. J Drugs Dermatol. 2018; 17(5):558-565.


11. Granger C, Aladren S, Delgado J, Garre A, Trullas C, Gilaberte Y. Prospective Evaluation of the Efficacy of a Food Supplement in Increasing Photoprotection and Improving Selective Markers Related to Skin Photo-Ageing. Dermatol Ther 2020; (Heidelb). 10(1):163-178.


ABOUT THE AUTHOR PC


As a consultant, Giorgio Dell’Acqua has directed R&D, Science, Product Development and Innovation at contract manufacturers, brands and ingredients companies specialising in skin and hair care applications. Giorgio Dell’Acqua has helped bring more than 200 successful active ingredients and formulations/ products to market, has authored more than 70 publications in medicine and cosmetic science, he is an inventor in many patents, and has been a presenter and a keynote speaker in more than 20 events and conferences in the last 2 years. He is also the 2021 Chair- Elect for the NY Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and its blog producer.


June 2021 PERSONAL CARE 21


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