52 LIFESTYLE COSMETICS
Bioinformatic analysis To predict the target genes of the miRNA profile an approximation using miRTarBase v7.0 was performed. This database only collects the target genes of miRNAs that have been experimentally validated.7
To
predict the target genes when the number of experimentally validated target genes is limited, DIANA microT-CDS was used instead. In parallel, a functional study was carried
out to identify the molecular routes and pathways noted in the Kyoto Encyclopedia of Genes and Genomes (KEGG) and in the Gene Ontology (GO) through DIANA-miRPath v3.0.8 To do this, a limit of p value of 0.05, and a microT limit of 0.8, along with the correction of false discovery rate (FDR) was selected. The algorithm used in this analysis consists of a one-tailed Fisher test.
Explant treatment and processing Skin explants from an abdominoplasty of a Caucasian woman were prepared. The explants were kept in survival in BEM culture medium (BIO-EC’s Explants Medium) at 37°C in a humid, 5 %-CO2
atmosphere. The active was diluted
to a final concentration of 0.45% directly in the culture medium. Explants were cultured for 9 days and the
culture medium was refreshed at days 2, 3, 6 and 8 either in the presence or the absence of the Monk fruit active. After 9 days in culture, the 3 explants for each treatment were collected and cut in two parts. Half was fixed in buffered formol solution and half was frozen at -80°C.
Histological processing After fixation for 24 hours in buffered formol, the samples were dehydrated, impregnated in paraffin and finally embedded using a Leica EG 1160 embedding station. 5-µm-thick sections were cut with a microtome and mounted on Superfrost® histological glass slides.
HYALURONIC ACID Skin Structure O-glycan biosynthesis Cell cycle
FOXO signaling
Figure 2: Pathways regulated by the combination of miRNAs.
The frozen samples were cut into 7-µm- thick sections using a Leica CM 3050 cryostat. Sections were then mounted on Superfrost® plus silanised glass slides.
Staining procedure and quantification Two different stains were performed on skin explants sections: The staining of hyaluronic acid was done on paraffinised sections using a biotynilated hyaluronic acid binding protein (HABP). HABP is indicative of the amount of hyaluronic acid in the skin.
The immunostaining of decorin was
performed on frozen sections using a monoclonal antibody anti-decorin antibody. Hyaluronic acid (HA) and decorin in
histological sections were quantified with ImageJ/FIJI (NIH, Bethesda, MA, USA).
DECORIN
Clinical studies protocol To evaluate the efficacy of the Monk fruit active physically and emotionally, two different double-blind, randomised placebo controlled in vivo studies were performed after twice daily applications over an 8-week period (D0, D28 and D56) and at a concentration of 2% in mature skins. Study I (physical assessments): The evaluation
consisted in instrumental analysis to assess quantitatively the efficacy of the product on the skin by different methodologies: skin hydration (Corneometer® CM825), biomechanical parameters (Dual-Cutometer MPA® 580), skin gloss (Glossymeter® GL 200), skin density and SLEB by ultrasonography (20 MHz probe, Dermscan C-System) and crow’s feet count (AEVA-HE, Eotech). This study was conducted in 44 women > 60 years old and all the instrumental measurements were made on the face. Study II (emotional responses): The
evaluation consisted in a neurostudy based on facial expression analysis through FACET algorithms (ImagineLab®) with the Mindlogics® technology using applied neuroscience with artificial intelligence. The study was conducted on 47 women >60 years old. Statistics: Resulting data were submitted to
the Wilcoxon test (* p<0.05). Emotional benefits: Conscious and
subconscious responses were analysed through the technology Mindlogics® based on artificial intelligence to find out what volunteers really think. Every panellist was in front of a computer with a camera answering questionnaires and watching a video while ImagineLab® was registering all the facial micro expressions of the volunteers in situ. The questionnaires and video were specifically designed to trigger responses and emotions related to the use of cosmetic products in general and to the experience of using our active compared to placebo.
Figure 3: Changes in hyaluronic acid and decorin in skin explants. PERSONAL CARE June 2021
In vitro results & discussion miRNA differential expression in aged dermal fibroblasts and bioinformatics analysis When we limited the analysis to a FC < 0.5, it revealed a total of 8 novel miRNAs
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Keratan sulfate
signaling degradation Lysine signaling
Prolifetation, Stress Response, Cell Adhesion
P13K-Akt signaling
HIF-1 P53
TGFb Signaling, Metabolism
CONTROL
MONK FRUIT ACTIVE
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