HAIR CARE
Scalp care efficacy of a multi-herb extract
Yina Lu, Heng Zhang, Jun Tian - Shanghai JAKA Biotech Co. Ltd, China
Human scalp reveals a remarkable difference to the hairy skin of other body regions. The structure of the scalp offers effective protection against water loss and contributes to thermoregulation due to significant vascularization. Dandruff is a skin condition that affects the scalp of up to half the world’s population, it is characterised by an itchy, flaky scalp and is associated with colonisation of the skin byMalassezia spp.1-4 Malassezia furfur is lipophilic and
dermatological pathogenic yeast, which normally exists on human skin, and causes tinea versicolor, seborrhoeic dermatitis, and atopic dermatitis, especially on human scalp.5-7
These M. furfur-
related diseases are often difficult to treat and require prolonged use of antifungal and anti- inflammatory medications.8-10
However, recently
available antifungal drugs to treat this fungal infection are highly toxic and costly when used in prolonged treatments. A promising approach for developing new cutaneous antifungals may lie with natural plants because of their ability to efficiently kill microbial pathogens and high-security.11 M. furfur was reported to induce the
inflammatory response and activation of keratinocyte and monocyte in hosts.12,13
The
epidermis composed of keratinocytes is a physical barrier to external pathogens. Keratinocytes act as initiators of innate immunity by producing interleukin (IL)-1α, IL-1β, IL-6, tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-α and prostaglandin E2 (PGE-2)14 propagating in acute and chronic response. The important immune system T helper (Th) cells are mainly triggered by cytokines from dermal monocytes and macrophages. When monocytes polarise to macrophages, cells recognise parasitical antigens and secrete proinflammatory cytokines such as TNF-a, IL-6, IL-8, IL-1β, IL-4,
A
50 40 30 20 10 0
Control M.f
PGE-2 and monocyte chemoattractant protein 1 (MCP-1)15-18
, which act as encounters and
activate antigen-specific natural killer T cells in a process known as the Th1 response, to mediated inflammatory responses of immune system. The antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory
characteristics of plant extracts in Asia have been studied and applied for thousands of years. We set up a high throughput method by using the heat-killed M.furfur culture medium to stimulate the monocyte THP-1 cells to select more than 30 herb extracts. Finally the multi herb extraction VGP which consists of Vitex trifolia fruit, Gentiana scabra, and Polygonum multiflorum root extract was prepared. And then the efficacy of anti- inflammation against M.furfur in THP-1 and NHEK cells was confirmed. Moreover, its clinical effect was designed in human scalp with symptoms of various problems, such as seborrhoeic dermatitis, dandruff, inflamed and itching scalp.
B 1500 * 1000 * ** ** ** 500 0.016 0.031 (VGP)% 0.063 0.125 Ref 0 ** ** **
Materials and methods VGP preparation Vitex trifolia fruit extract, Gentiana scabra extract and Polygonum multiflorum root extract were firstly prepared by water extraction according to previous reports in China. Then the three extracts were dissolved in dipropylene glycol (CAS No. 25265-71-8) at 50°C for 4 h with a special composition, followed by decolorisation, impurity removal, deodorisation and filtration. Polysorbate 20 (CAS No.9005-64-5) was added to promote the water solubility of VGP, which consist of many active ingredients such as luteolin, rutin, gentiopicroside and resveratrol.
Maintenance of cells Normal human monocyte THP-1 cells and keratinocyte NHEK cells were procured from BNBIO Company (China). Cells were cultured in
ABSTRACT Malassezia furfur is a lipophilic and dermatological pathogenic yeast, which normally exists on human skin, and causes tinea versicolor, seborrhoeic dermatitis, and atopic dermatitis, especially on human scalp. The multi-herb extraction, VGP, which consists of Vitex trifolia fruit, Gentiana scabra, and Polygonum multiflorum root extract was used to study its effect of anti-inflammation, controlling sebum and dandruff on scalp care. Results showed that on the model of NHEK and THP1 cell inflammation induced byMalassezia furfur, VGP can inhibit the expression of interleukin 6 (IL-6), prostaglandin E2 (PGE-2), monocyte chemoattractant protein 1 (MCP-1) and interleukin 1β (IL-1β) in a dose-dependent manner under 0.01% to 0.125% concentration. On the inflammatory model of 3D reconstructed skin induced by H2
O2 , VGP significantly improved the cell viability and
skin structure, and reduced the production of interleukin 8 (IL-8), PGE-2, and leukotriene B4 (LTB4). During 4 week’s treatment with test shampoo containing 0.5% VGP thrice a week on 16 subjects met with different symptoms, VGP reduced the sebum content and TEWL, improved the redness, itching and dandruff on human scalp skin. Therefore, as a natural active ingredient VGP can play a role in scalp care and skin care by targeting inflammation.
33
Control
M.f
0.016
0.031 (VGP)% Figure 1: The effect of VGP on cytokines induced by M. furfur in NHEK cells. (* Significant differences compared to M.f group, P<0.05; ** P<0.01)
www.personalcaremagazine.com June 2021 PERSONAL CARE
0.063
0.125
Ref
IL-6, ng.L-1
PGE-2, ng.L-1
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