48 SKIN PROTECTION
STUDY OF LIPID PEROXIDATION IN FIBROBLASTS BY HYDROGEN PEROXIDE
MDA (uM/mg of proteins)
STUDY OF FIBROBLAST CELL PROLIFERATION AFTER EXPOSURE TO HYDROGEN PEROXIDE
Optical density (OD)
24%
-30% Control H2 O2
Vit C (1%) + H2
O2
IR [CC+AA] (0.5%)+ H2
O2
-34%
IR [CC+AA] (1%)+ H2
O2
-39%
IR [CC+AA] (2.5%)+ H2
O2
DECREASE OF MDA At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, after exposure to hydrogen peroxide, decrease of MDA 0f 30%, 34% and 39% (VS vitamin C only. Decrease of 24%).
Figure 2: Fibroblast studies.
Clinical tests Anti-wrinkle efficacy on the face Tests were carried out for 28 days on a sample of 20 women aged 42 to 63 years. Assessments were made by analysis of cutaneous prints (Quantirides®). For the study, application was made twice a day of an emulsion with 0.5% of Inner Renewal [CC+AA] (20% shells).
Results The study results demonstrate a decrease of the length of wrinkles of 21%; a decrease of the total wrinkle area of 18%; a decrease of the number of wrinkles of 16%. The responses from the panel to their use of the emulsion t the concentration of 0.5% were as follows: ■ 96% of women reported that their skin was firmer ■ 95% of women reported that their skin was more toned ■ 88% of women reported that their wrinkles were reduced
In vitro tests Restoration of the viability of fibroblasts affected by internal oxidation The majority of ageing in human cells, in this case fibroblasts, results from their oxidation, that may be of external or internal origin (due to metabolism,
H]-Glucosamine (cpm)
stress, or diet for example). This is called oxidative stress: a threat caused by reactive oxygen species (superoxide anions O2•-, hydrogen peroxide H2
or hydroxyl radicals HO) every day. When free radicals (reactive oxygen species)
are not counter-attacked by internal antioxidants, they cause wide-ranging cellular damage: lipid peroxidation, oxidation of cell‘s membranes, their proteins, and ultimately their DNA. The cell is then oxidised: it can no longer function properly and dies. In the context of natural (or physiological)
oxidative stress, it is ROS such as hydrogen peroxide that attack the cells. Hydrogen peroxide is the simplest of the peroxides, existing naturally in living beings, since it is a by-product of cellular respiration. It is therefore generated continuously by skin cells. Naolys decided to test InnerRenewal [CC+AA]’s
effect on fibroblasts after exposure to hydrogen peroxide, not only in terms of the oxidation of lipids in the cells (synthesis of malondialdehyde), but also their multiplication. Because their decline over time due to this oxidation caused by hydrogen peroxide results in less synthesis of support components for the dermis. All the tests have been carried out on culture of aged human fibroblasts used between P2 and P4.
Study of lipid peroxidation in fibroblasts This study demonstrated a decrease of MDA at concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, after exposure
STUDY OF PERIMEMBRAN TRANSMEMBRAN AND MATRICIAL PROTEOGLYCANS Incorporation of [3
Peri-membran ■ Transmembran ■ Matricial ■ +20% +21% +19% Control H2 O2
Vit C (1%) + H2
O2 +25%
IR [CC+AA] (0.5%)+ H2
O2 +24% +29%
IR [CC+AA] (1%)+ H2
O2 +26% +31% +37%
IR [CC+AA] (2.5%)+ H2
O2
INCREASE OF GAGs At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, after exposure to hydrogen peroxide, increase perimembran proteoglycans respectively of 25%, 29% and 37%; Increase of transmembran proteoglycans respectively 24%, 31% and 33%; increase of matricial proteoglycans of 26%, 34% and 41%.
Figure 3: Studying increase of proteoglycans and GAGs. PERSONAL CARE June 2021
www.personalcaremagazine.com Control H2 O2
Vit C (1%) + H2
O2
IR [CC+AA] (0.5%)+ H2
O2
IR [CC+AA] (1%)+ H2
O2
IR [CC+AA] (2.5%)+ H2
O2
INCREASE OF GAGs At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, after exposure to hydrogen peroxide, increase of the neosynthesis of glycossaminoglycans respectively of 28%, 36% and 44% (VS vitamin C only. +23%).
+34% +33% +41% +23% +28% +36% +44% Incorporation of [3
to hydrogen peroxide, of 30%, 34% and 39% respectively (VS vitamin C only: decrease of 24%).
O2 ,
Study of fibroblast cell proliferation This study showed there was an increase of cellular proliferation at concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, after exposure to hydrogen peroxide, of 13%, 17% and 21% respectively (VS vitamin C only: increase of 10%).
Increases the skin firmness by densifying the extracellular matrix Fibroblasts have a dual function: the first is a strong synthesis activity. Through exocytosis, they secrete all the components of the extracellular matrix (ECM): collagen, elastin, fibrillin, ground substance, growth factors and enzymes, including collagenases and matrix protease inhibitors to break down the extracellular matrix, renew it and reorganise it. They also have a breakdown activity that enables them to recover (by endocytosis) extracellular elements that they have broken down; this is important in healing. By causing damage to fibroblasts, ROS also damage the ground substance consisting of polysaccharides (like proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans-GAGs) and collagen fibres (used in tissue repair), elastin and adhesion proteins (fibronectin and laminin), essential components of the ECM.
STUDY OF GLYCOSAMINOGLYCANS H]-Glucosamine (cpm)
Control H2 O2
+10%
+13%
Vit C (1%) + H2
O2
IR [CC+AA] (0.5%)+ H2
O2
+17%
IR [CC+AA] (1%)+ H2
O2
+21%
IR [CC+AA] (2.5%)+ H2
O2
INCREASE OF CELLULAR PROLIFERATION At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, after exposure to hydrogen peroxide, increase of proliferation of fibroblasts of 13%, 17% and 21% (VS vitamin C only. increased of 10%).
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