LIFESTYLE COSMETICS Placebo ■ Monk Fruit Extract ■
80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
D0 D28 D56
53
40%**
10%
D28 Figure 4: Skin gloss variation (** p<0.01).
from 500 differently expressed. The reduction in the expression levels varies from 50% to 80% indicating that our ingredient can limit the general miRNA upregulation seen during ageing (Fig 1). There is little bibliographic information
about validated targets for this set of miRNAs and their role, except for miR- 378a-3p that recently has been found over expressed in psoriatic skin, which potentiates inflammatory responses9
and has an active
role in metabolism.10 In order to have more information,
this novel set of 8 miRNAs was analysed by bioinformatics. This analysis revealed through the DIANA-mirPath web server that the pathway most likely to be modulated by the miRNAs is the biosynthesis of glycosaminoglycans (type O-glycans) together with keratan sulfate, both being related to the proteoglycan pathway (Fig 2). Therefore, this analysis indicates that
the gene targets for this combination of miRNAs modified by the Monk fruit active are related to components of the extracellular matrix as well as to the metabolism in aged fibroblasts.
D56 Figure 5: Evolution of skin ultrasonography: skin density and SLEB.
Ex vivo effects on the extracellular matrix Hyaluronic acid is the most abundant glycosaminoglycan in the skin, and it has important roles in maintaining the water content of the skin as well as helping to maintain the skin integrity and support. Proteoglycans, such as decorin maintains the mechanical strength of the skin and participates in forming the collagen fiber. Monk fruit active induces a very significant increase of endogenous hyaluronic acid (+321%) as well as an increase in decorin (+35%) expression in the papillary dermis (Fig 3). These results corroborate that our ingredient acts on the synthesis of the ECM components through regulation of the miRNAs levels.
Clinical results & discussion Physical assessments: Two of the most important concerns in postmenopausal women are dull and dry skin. 2% Monk fruit active causes a significant gain in hydration of 22% and 33% compared to placebo after 28 and 56 days of treatment enhancing the moisturisation of mature skins. In the same way, our active increases luminosity by an impressive 40% giving a radiant look after 56 days (Fig 4). Moreover, 2% of monk fruit active decreases the
number of crow’s feet by 18.5% at D56 as compared to placebo (p<0.05) and it increases skin elasticity by 12% after 56 days (p<0.05). Regarding the skin density, the variation
between both treatments shows a significant increase of 16% and 28% in the sub epidermal density after 28 and 56 days favourable to our ingredient. In addition, 2% of Monk fruit active decreases the SLEB thickness both at 28 and 56 days by 8% and 15% (Fig 5). These results show that the monk fruit active
responds to the essential needs of mature skins in three key aspects: it restores the natural glow, it fills and redensifies the dermis and it hydrates the skin. Finally, our ingredient reduces neck folds
and wrinkles as depicted in Figure 6. Emotional responses: It is known that 95%
of our decisions are made by the subconscious mind, so we decided to analyse whether volunteers were “thinking” differently following treatment with our active. Although there was a positive impact on both the conscious and subconscious responses to the active, the effect was much stronger at the subconscious, emotional level (Fig 7A). In addition, there is a noticeable difference with the placebo response, as 67% of the women treated with the
Figure 6: Neck fold improvement after monk fruit treatment .
www.personalcaremagazine.com June 2021 PERSONAL CARE
Skin gloss (% variation vs D0)
MONK FRUIT
PLACEBO
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92
