SKIN PROTECTION
Renewing skin from the heart of the dermis
Sonia Guillaume Léglise – Naolys, France
Skin cells are damaged all the time, specifically because of their exposure to free radicals that modify their structure, causing them to function less efficiently and ultimately affecting their DNA. Essentially, they are ageing rapidly.
While we cannot stop oxidation, we can slow it down and stimulate the repair of cell functions, especially the fibroblasts. This helps to keep skin firmer, with fewer wrinkles, and younger looking.
High tech natural: cornflower + vitamin C As a complete natural delivery system, plant cells can integrate a lot of molecules, including high tech and pharmaceutical molecules. Naolys created a new shell based on cornflower cells - Inner Renewal [CC+AA] - delivering vitamin C (1%) to help key skin cells maintain their functions for longer, especially keeping the skin naturally firm. Cornflowers are a wild herbaceous plant
that often grows near cereals and attract pollinating insects. Vitamin C is a natural molecule that occurs in several varieties of fruits, such as citrus. The ingredient helps to reduce wrinkles and fine lines, especially crow’s feet (face). It also firms and enhances suppleness, helping to relaunch collagen and GAG synthesis. In addition, the ingredient increases epidermal cell renewal and limits damage caused by oxidative stress.
The cause of skin densification in the heart of the dermis Ageing first becomes apparent in our skin. It sags, folds, forms fine lines and then wrinkles, and becomes drier and more sensitive. Our faces and entire bodies are affected by these changes.
The majority of these changes are in fact
due to deterioration in the key layer of the skin: the dermis. The dermis is the intermediate layer under the epidermis (four times thicker) which nourishes the skin, protects the vascular network and nerve fibres, as well as containing the pilosebaceous system and the sweat glands. There is also connective tissue (in the deep and middle layers of the dermis). This tissue consists of an interlocking network of collagen fibres which create the scar tissue to repair cuts or abrasions, and elastic fibres that enable the skin to stretch; fibres that are synthesised by the most common type of cell in the dermis: the fibroblasts. At birth, the skin is tight, smooth and
without wrinkles. If it changes, it is because the fibroblasts have changed, becoming damaged and reduced in number by the daily oxidation, that in the first place is generated by our own bodies. They then no longer manufacture enough collagen fibres and support substances such as the proteins that hold water, for example hyaluronic acid. The epidermis is then no longer sufficiently irrigated by the dermis, and also deteriorates. To slow down the ageing process in the dermis, it is therefore necessary to act on these cells and support their general operation.
ASSESSMENT OF THE ANTI-WRINKLES EFFECT BY CUTANEOUS REPLICATS AND IMAGES ANALYSIS D0 ■ D28 ■
Maintaining the health of fibre- producing and support cells for better skin quality Increasing the presence and efficiency of fibroblasts Like all human cells, dermis cells are attacked by free radicals generated by “physiological” oxidation, i.e. that comes from respiration and stress, every day, and every night. Furthermore, with age, they multiply less and less. They are therefore less able to function properly. Inner Renewal [CC+AA] improves fibroblast function by protecting them from physiological oxidative stress and by stimulating their multiplication.
Increase the skin’s firmness If the number of fibroblasts decreases and they are damaged by attacks from free radicals, they manufacture less collagen and less water- bearing molecules, and so the dermis sags and becomes susceptible to wrinkles. Inner Renewal [CC+AA] restores the synthesis of components essential to the skin’s firmness: collagens fibres and polysaccharides.
Improves the density and suppleness of the epidermis Above the dermis, the epidermis is the outer layer of the skin that we see. Its quality is also essential for the skin’s general firmness. With age, it renews itself more slowly, hydration becomes less efficient and the skin has a rough appearance. Inner Renewal [CC+AA] relaunches the proliferation of keratinocytes, essential for the skin’s density and surface hydration.
47
-16%
-21% -18% Number
www.personalcaremagazine.com Figure 1: Decrease of crow’s feet wrinkles.
Length Total surface
June 2021 PERSONAL CARE
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