44 HAIR CARE
Hair care: a revolution announced
P. Goyat, C. Fabra, L. Brun, G. Rosson – Natura-Tec, France
Our hair is part of our identity, our hair makes us different, makes us unique. Preserving the health of our hair is essential because our hair is the mirror of our health. During the last months of a year unlike any
other, many of us have seen our daily lives turned upside down with the need to change the routines of our wellbeing. Hair remains a major asset and it is important to let it express itself more “naturally”. The search for ease of maintenance at home, innovative care and more naturalness are the trends of 2021 for more simplicity, freedom and assumed beauty.
Scalp care Hair changes and is never the same, it needs to breathe and to be healthy and therefore care must be taken on the scalp above all. The scalp is the nourishing earth of the hair. In good health, the hair follicle creates cells called keratinocytes every day. They in turn produce keratin, the protein that makes up the hair and makes it strong. During times of stress, the scalp can show redness, itchiness and dryness and alter the normal growth of the hair fibre and generate the appearance of dandruff. The use of ultra-gentle, hypoallergenic
and restorative formulas is therefore sought. At Natura-Tec, we find the repairing and re-balancing microbiota active ingredient for sensitive skin: Natura-Tec Marine OceanMist CL™, which helps reduce redness and irritation. The ingredient contains an extract of the microalgae Nannochloropsis Oceanica, an important source of plant cholesterol, called Phyto-cholesterol, as well as omega 3: EPA (Eicosapentaenoic acid) and carotenoids; it plays a major role in repairing and strengthening the scalp’s barrier function. This active ingredient can restore a normal skin type generating a healthier skin microbiota. This active ingredient is ideal for treating damaged scalps typical of dry or even very dry and sensitive skin.
Strengthening hair Whether seasonal, stress-related or one of the residual effects of COVID-19 infection, there is an increase in disorders related to hair quality, hair loss or thinning. The objective is therefore to strengthen the hair fibre and to do this, Natura-Tec offers the ingredient Natura-Tec Abysoft™ which has protective, moisturising and regenerating properties for the hair which make it a good all-natural conditioner, ideal for providing volume and protecting against damage caused by mechanical stress such as high temperature hair straighteners, UV
PERSONAL CARE June 2021
exposure and seawater aggression. Natura-Tec Abysoft has also been proven to increase hair volume, elasticity, shine and stylability of the hair while reducing electrostaticity when used in multiple hair conditioning formulations. It can also replace synthetic or silicone-derived hair conditioners. In particular, it protects the colour of the hair and would be useful in care shampoos and nourishing post-colouring masks in order to prevent colour loss. Natura-Tec Abysoft protects and maintains hair’s natural vitality against mechanical and environmental stress, making it an ideal choice for formulators looking to create cosmetic products that deliver comprehensive hair benefits. Also, Natura-Tec SeaRenew™ active
ingredient would be a good ingredient in restorative and nutritious mask applications. It helps induce hair growth and strengthen it. It is a unique infusion of sapote oil and Nannochloropsis Oceanica microalgae species. This infusion is optimised and concentrated to promote and support hair strength and growth. The species Nannochloropsis Oceanica, whose inoculum is native to the seas of Norway, has an extremely high cholesterol content (> 70% of total sterols). Cholesterol is essential for eukaryotic organisms and plays an important role in the vitality of hair. Sebocytes, epithelial cells forming sebum, release lipids such as cholesterol, squalene, waxes and triglycerides at the end of their differentiation and thus protect
the hair from dehydration and participate in the microbial ecosystem. Cholesterol is therefore essential for healthy hair.
The power of plants This is also the trend for natural formulas, consumers are showing increased interest in vegan and silicone-free shampoos as well as natural beauty products that are part of the clean beauty movement. They are drawn to quality hair care products while wanting to reduce their environmental impact. The Natura-Tec Plantsil™ range, plant-based alternatives to silicones, used in shampoos or conditioners, are ideal for improving the glide, shine and feel of the hair. They lubricate and coat the hair fibre while nourishing it, filling in gaps and split ends, which facilitates styling and makes the hair more docile. Also, the Natural BBB - Beauty Balm Base
which gives texture to the hair in styling gels for example. This product has a butter-like consistency with unique malleability and sweetness while having a high melting point of around 75°C. It brings softness and smoothness to the formulations with a silicone feel on application, good absorption and a velvety finish. In emulsion systems, Natural BBB - Beauty Balm Base gives a high consistency, non-sticky and non-greasy after touching. This ingredient has co-emulsifying properties helping to stabilise emulsions thanks to its specific natural crystal lattice. In anhydrous
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