66 SUSTAINABILITY
Makistem effect on melanin production in culture of human melanocytes subjected to UV radiation
80 60 40 20 0
# Melanin (µg/mL) ■ 1 -31.2%
-40.3% **
* -27.9%
Makistem effect as anti-ageing by quantification of type I procollagen in human fibroblast culture (HFBF)
+23.1%
Pro-collagen type I (mg/mL) ■ **
+17.9% *
Control
UV (5 J/cm2
)
1%
0.3% Melanin (µg/mL) # p<0.001 compared to control group; **p<0.01 compared to control group; *p<0.05 compared to control group.
Figure 2: Reduction of melanin production Maqui berries are exceptionally rich in
anthocyanins, a class of antioxidants that surpass the efficacy of those found in other popular berries. Research indicates that maqui anthocyanins are seven times more powerful than those found in Açai and nine times more effective than those found in Goji berries. This strong antioxidant capacity makes maqui an ideal candidate for cosmetic applications, offering robust protection against oxidative stress and UV-induced damage. Biotechnological cultivation of the
Aristotelia chilensis extract maximises these antioxidant benefits, ensuring sustainable and consistent production. This method makes high quality extracts available all year round, free from the environmental impacts associated with traditional cultivation. Incorporating the Aristotelia chilensis extract into cosmetic products offers a reliable and environmentally friendly solution to combat photo-ageing, reduce dark spots and improve overall skin health.
Holistic benefits and efficacy The growing consumer preference for natural
0.1%
0
Control
1% Makistem **p<0.01 compared to control group; *p<0.05 compared to UV group Figure 3: Promoting the production of type I collagen
and sustainable cosmetic ingredients is part of a broader trend towards eco-conscious and health-focused products. Market forecasts indicate that the global market for natural and organic cosmetics will reach $54.5 billion by 2027. This forecast underlines the increasing demand for effective and environmentally friendly beauty products.1
Reducing melanin production effectiveness Sun exposure is essential for vitamin D synthesis; however, prolonged unprotected exposure leads to premature ageing, hyperpigmentation, accelerated wrinkle formation, chronic lesions and melanoma. Melanin, produced by melanocytes in the skin and hair, is crucial for providing colour and sun protection, acting as a UV filter. However, excessive melanin production
due to overexposure to UV rays can cause hyperpigmentation and the formation of skin blemishes. Studies have shown that the Aristotelia chilensis extract reduces melanin production by 40.4% at a concentration of 1%, by 31.2% at 0.3% and by 27.9% at 0.1% mg/ml.
Evaluation of Makistem for the production of MMP-1 MMP-1 (µg/mL) ■
4 3 2 1
0 Control # *** 26.3% 26.8% This reduction is achieved by inhibiting
tyrosinase, a key enzyme in melanin synthesis. By addressing hyperpigmentation, the Aristotelia chilensis extract helps promote a more even skin tone.
Promoting type I collagen synthesis Collagen, especially type I collagen, is crucial for maintaining skin firmness and elasticity. Ageing and UV exposure can decrease collagen levels, leading to wrinkles and sagging. UV exposure activates mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs), leading to activation of the MMP promoter, the nuclear transcription factor AP-1.2,3 This positively regulates the expressions
of MMPs 1, 3 and 9, which in turn break down and inhibit collagen production within the skin matrix. The Aristotelia chilensis extract has
been shown to increase type I procollagen production by 23.1% at a concentration of 1% and by 17.8% at 0.3%. This effect is attributed to the extract’s ability to stimulate fibroblast activity and increase collagen gene expression, thereby improving skin structure and reducing the appearance of wrinkles.
Protection against UV-induced damage UV radiation accelerates skin ageing by increasing oxidative stress and collagen degradation. Sun exposure generates reactive oxygen species (ROS), such as free radicals, which cause oxidative stress in the skin. This leads to the activation of enzymes that degrade the skin’s extracellular matrix, such as matrix metalloproteinase type 1 (MMP-1), causing premature skin ageing.2,3 The Aristotelia chilensis extract protects
UV (5 J/cm2 ) 1% UV + Makistem # p<0.001 compared to the control group; **p<0.01 compared to the UV group; *p<0.05 compared to the UV group. Figure 4: Protection against UV-induced damage collagen PERSONAL CARE January 2025
The reduction of dark age spots Spots on the surface of the facial skin can be
www.personalcaremagazine.com 0.3%
by inhibiting the activity of MMP-1, an enzyme responsible for collagen degradation. The extract reduces MMP-1 activity by 26.3% at a concentration of 1% and by 26.8% at 0.3%. This inhibition helps prevent premature skin ageing and maintain collagen integrity.
0.3%
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