10 NEWS


China greenlights first ingredient under CSAR


China has approved the first ingredient under its new Cosmetic Supervision and Administration Regulation (CSAR) regime, Beiersdorf’s Thiamidol 630 (Isobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol). The anti-acne treatment marks


the first ingredient to be registered by the National Medical Products Administration (NMPA) since implementing CSAR in 2021. The regulatory approval of Thiamidol 630 in China is the first step towards the complete registration of the finished goods to be distributed in domestic China. Beiersdorf will cooperate with


the NMPA to support a compliant and fast registration process to introduce the products into the Chinese market which is expected within 12 to 18 months.


Dr. Gitta Neufang, chief R&D


Officer of Beiersdorf added: “Thiamidol 630 is only the second anti-spot ingredient to receive such approval in China and the first since the implementation of the CSAR. “For our team this is another


significant step in our strategy to further expand Thiamidol across our brand portfolio to address hyperpigmentation and thus touch people‘s lives.” Beiersdorf says the


patented anti-spot ingredient is the most effective against hyperpigmentation on the market. Thiamidol 630’s efficacy has been proven in more than 110 clinical studies involving approximately 8,500 participants of all skin types. After ten years of research and


testing 50,000 compounds by Beiersdorf scientists, it was first launched in 2018 and has been rolled out across the world from 2019.


Vincent Warnery, CEO of


Beiersdorf, said: “We are delighted about the approval of our hero ingredient Thiamidol 630 in China and would like to thank the NMPA and the National Institutes for Food and Drug Control (NIFDC) for their supervision and support in the process.”


30% of beauty ingredients ‘in the grey’


Thirty per cent of beauty and personal care product ingredients lack thorough safety data, according to a report published by ChemFORWARD. Beauty & Personal Care


Ingredient Intelligence Report analysed the ingredient lists of 8,500 products. The study found nearly 318,000


ingredients listed but only 2,279 unique ingredients across all products. Of the 2,279 unique ingredients,


ChemFORWARD said 66% are well understood and considered safe, whereas 3% “have known high hazards or are considered emerging chemical classes of concern”. Some 30% have gaps in their safety data. ChemFORWARD, a collaboration


between beauty brands, ingredient manufacturers including Dow and Inolex, and the nonprofit Environmental Defense Fund, stressed the need for full chemical hazard characterization of ingredients as an “urgent imperative to fully understand their human and environmental impacts”. The report identified a top


ten of ingredients for further characterization, and ten priority ingredients for elimination.


PERSONAL CARE January 2025 The top ten ingredients most


in need of analysis are mica, trimethylsiloxysilicate, Nylon-12, Red 6 (CI 15850), Manganese Violet (CI 77742), Carmine (CI 75470), Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Octyldodecanol, Bismuth Oxychloride (CI 77163) and Phenyl Trimethicone. Cyclopentasiloxane tops the


list of chemicals for elimination, followed by BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene), Chromium oxide greens (CI 77288), Methylparaben, Carbomer (chlorinated), Red 30 (CI 73360), Red 27 (CI 45410), Butylphenyl Methylpropional (Lilial), Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Octinoxate), Aluminum Powder (CI 77000). The report models an approach


that could be adopted throughout the industry: conducting baseline ingredient audits, investing in chemical hazard assessments to close data gaps, and phasing out high-hazard chemicals as


the pathway to transition to safer chemistry. There is also significant emphasis on the flaws with the current practice of restricting specific chemicals without clear guidance on safer substitutes, leading to regrettable substitutions where one harmful chemical is replaced with another, potentially perpetuating the problem. The report concludes with a


call to action, urging the industry to continue investing in chemical hazard assessments, eliminate high- hazard chemicals, and embrace the transition to safer chemistry. “By prioritizing hazard


transparency and collaboration, the beauty and personal care industry can create a future where products are verified to be inherently safe for both human health and the environment,” it said. added: “This report shows that


beauty and safety can—and must— go hand in hand.


ECHA: banned chemicals in 6%


of cosmetics A pilot project by the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) has found that 6% of cosmetic products inspected between November 2023 and April 2024 in 13 European Economic Area (EEA) countries contained banned substances. National enforcement authorities


in the 13 countries checked nearly 4,500 cosmetic products, mainly looking at the ingredients list, for the presence of perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), long chain perfluorocarboxylic acids (PFCAs) and related substances, and cyclic siloxanes D4 and D5. The authorities found that 285


of the inspected cosmetics included hazardous chemicals whose use is banned in these products. Those found were: ■ Perfluorononyl dimethicone ■ Perfluorooctylethyl triethoxysilane ■ Perfluorononylethyl carboxydecyl PEG-10 dimethicone ■ Cyclopentasiloxane (D5), cyclomethicone (a blend of D4, D5 and D6), cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) These chemicals are banned


in cosmetics because they have been identified as persistent organic pollutants (POPs) or (very) persistent, (very) bioaccumulative and toxic (PBT/vPvB) that adversely affect human health and the environment. Their use is banned under the


Stockholm Convention on POPs or restricted under the REACH Regulation.


Based on national experience


perfluorononyl dimethicone was primarily found in eyeliners and lipliners, in pencil or crayon form. D4 and D5 were found in hair conditioners and hair masks. The enforcement authorities have


taken measures to remove the non- compliant products from the market. In most cases, the first step


was issuing written advice to guide suppliers on how to comply with the law. Investigations are still ongoing in about half of the cases.


www.personalcaremagazine.com


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