56 HAIR CARE
Rheology modification and detergency action The model formulation of a sulphate-free baby shampoo containing 5% of microgels (by product) was developed (Sample III) (Table 1) to assess the impact of polysaccharide microgels on the cleansing ability in hair care. Comparison samples were also prepared without the additive: one using xanthan gum as a thickener and the chelating agent GLDA-4Na (sample II) and one without thickeners (sample I). The tests were conducted on natural straight European hair, serving as a model for ‘virgin untreated hair’. The test involves evaluating the shampoo's
ability to remove dirt from the hair. The hair strands were pre-cleaned with a 10% sodium laureth sulphate (SLES) solution and then soiled with lanolin (animal wax). The soiled strands were washed in a deep
bowl with 50% solution of the test samples, followed by finger combing. After drying for 24 hours, the strands were weighed, and the mass of the removed lanolin was calculated. In this test, polysaccharide microgels function as a complexing agent and thickening agent in a sulphate-free surfactant system, allowing for the creation of a product with excellent viscosity, transparency, and flow properties, in contrast to the traditional natural thickener, xanthan gum. Shampoo Sample II with xanthan gum
as a rheology modifier, has good viscosity but exhibits drawbacks in terms of product aesthetics, specifically in transparency and sensory experience, resulting in a whitish gel with a sticky effect upon use (Table 1). The results of tests determining the
cleansing action of model formulations of sulphate-free baby shampoo with and without the addition of the multifunctional component are presented in Figure 4. The amount of lanolin removed, which
simulates sebum secretions that lead to hair and scalp contamination, by shampoo models I, II, and III demonstrates excellent cleansing ability. The reliability of the result is confirmed by test repetition. The addition of the additive into Shampoo Sample III eliminates the need for separate
90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
TABLE 1: MODEL FORMULATIONS OF A SULPHATE-FREE BABY SHAMPOO Ingredients
Water pH Adjuster Cocamidopropyl betaine
Sodium Cocoamphodiacetate Sodium Lauroyl sarcosinate Betaine
Capryl hydroxamic Acid and Propylene Glycol
Lauryl glucoside
Function Solvent
pH Adjuster
Amphoteric surfactant Amphoteric surfactant Anionic surfactant Humectant Preservative
Non-ionic surfactant
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate Complexing agent Xanthan Gum
Polysaccharide microgels Indicators
pH Factor Viscosity
Visual appearance
complexing agents and thickeners and reduces the amount of non-ionic surfactant by 1% without losing the cleansing efficacy of the formulation, which remains at the level of the control sample and corresponds to the best washability.
Rinsability Testing of a sulphate- free baby shampoo with polysaccharide microgels The negative impact on hair and scalp can be caused not only by the hardness ions present in tap water but also by the surfactants present in all cosmetic cleansing products. The hardness ions in tap water do not allow for the complete
Control (Deionised water) ■ Sample 2 (with xanthan gum) ■ Sample 3 (with microgels) ■ Rheology modifier Multi-functional ingredient
Unit pH
Pa-s
Sample 1 6.0 -
Transparent solution
5.0% 0.5% -
Sample 1
Sample 2
100% q.s.
5.0% 2.0% 5.0% 1.0% 0.5%
5.0% 0.5% 0.7% -
Sample 2 6.12
5.980 Non-
transparent whitish gel
4.0% - -
5.0%
Sample 3 5.9
5.720
Transparent flowing gel
dissolution of all components of foaming products, creating a film on the surface, and as a result, the feeling of not fully rinsed cleansing products.
The cumulative effect from poor rinsing over
time can lead to scalp itching and irritation, as well as dullness, stiffness and dryness of hair, rapid fading of natural hair pigment, and colour change in dyed strands. Polysaccharide microgels, by binding hardness
ions, soften tap water and facilitate better rinsability of the cleansing product, preventing the accumulation of surface-active agents on hair and scalp, thereby preventing the formation of dandruff. Test performed on the chromatographic
column which was filled with Raschig rings and mounted on a stand above the balance. Using a micropipette, 10 g of 0.09% cosmetic formulation solution (0.009 g of cosmetic formulation, distilled water) was applied to the column and the measurement time was started.5 The cleaning solution flowed down the
column into a glass placed on the scale. At time intervals of ten seconds, the mass of the collected solution was recorded for 120 seconds. After each experiment, the chromatographic column and Raschig rings were washed with distilled water three times, then with acetone, and dried. The distilled water experiment was considered
10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 Time (sec)
Figure 5: Flow-off rate for selected formulations and distilled water as a reference (average values for n=3)
PERSONAL CARE January 2025
a comparison sample. For each test, at least three repetitions must be performed. The amount of solution flowing down or remaining on the column was measured, and the kinetics of the solution flowing process was also studied. Baby shampoo formulation with
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Sample 3
Flow rate %
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